5 new restaurants in Moscow that opened in March – Afisha-Restaurants

  • Meanwhile, restaurants and cafes continue to open in Moscow. Restaurant critic Vladimir Gridin visited five new establishments: he felt sad for a bun at Lou Lou, enjoyed an excellent Rocky risotto, and appreciated a taste of veal tongue at Folk.

  • Lou Lou
  • – Good morning! – A black Doman with a straw hat opens the door to the recently opened Lou Lou restaurant in Malaya Bronnaya. The guy is called Leo, he speaks French much better than Russian. Meeting him is the perfect start to get you to Paris without leaving Les étangs du Patriarche.

  • This bonjour is like teleportation. After a little confusion, you are immediately convinced that you are in a Parisian bistro with its light charm and elegance. The menu was designed by a chef from St. Petersburg, Leonid Ivanov (Grecco, Mercado del sol) – The restaurant Bulldozer Group is known for quickly picking up emerging chefs. They even sent him especially to Paris to learn all the subtleties of the classics, to immerse him in the atmosphere of French cuisine. The food turned out to be quite traditional, without twists, but with a writer’s look and that decorates it beautifully.

  • A meal at Lou Lou starts with bread: a huge tray of bread is brought to the table by a waiter. Brios malt, sourdough bread with figs and raisins, bun with carrot juice and pumpkin, walnut bread. I chose the second one and I was immediately upset: dense and tasteless, like a piece of clay, it did not meet expectations at all. This often happens in Paris itself, when instead of meeting the city of lights, you are in a scary suburb and the waiter in the cafe pretends not to understand you at all. But the tartar was good. Lou Lou signature tartare is served in a thin layer, already mixed with capers, mustard, yolk and other necessities, it is very good. Rôti tartare looks like beef steak: it is burnt with fire, but served cold. Each is served with crispy lettuce and french fries. Ribeye a la Parisienne must be accompanied by it too, but I ordered a potato gratin and I was not wrong. The meat was juicy and perfectly cooked and the thin potato slices were crispy around the edges and soft on the inside. For my next visit, I planned a sautéing with porcini mushrooms, lentils and truffles, pate in croutons with foie gras and beef liver with raspberries.

  • Vegetables with green curry

  • A big advantage for Lou Lou is that confectioner Lyubov Plaksina (“Good Girl”, Nord 22) makes him desserts. Her sweets always tremble, like an impressionist touch. To try everything at once, you need to get a variety of Five O’Clock petit fours. There are chocolate eclairs, crispy meringue, profiteroles with butter cream, baileys truffle, lemon meringue cake, cinnamon and strawberry mantle. My weakness, a rum woman, in Plaksina became “Rum Lady” with strawberries and butter cream. And the light aroma sprinkled on her dessert goes a long way.

  • By the way, for perfumes. Restaurant bartender Artem Talalay did not think of a cocktail card, but a whole range of perfumes along with the Molecule. To choose a drink, guests are offered a velvet box with samples, according to the aroma of which the future cocktail is selected. Each is a reference to one of the 8 cocktails.

  • … And instead of red lipstick, like a true Parisian, Lou Lou has red touches, from roses on the tables and sauces on the plates to ruby ​​touches on white napkins.

  • Rocky

  • The new restaurant in Bolshaya Dmitrovka opens a gateway to Italy, as seen by its creators. They do not blindly follow the traditions and recipes, but give their own, often bold interpretations to the classic dishes.

  • Rocky’s top appetizer is the Sardinian escolar. The butter fish fillet marinated in roasted garlic is cut into thin slices and served with green sauce. The rich fried seals are baked in Antonovka yeast, the burrata with tomatoes is seasoned with flower honey and orange juice and the carpaccio scallop is flavored with a mixture of lemon, lime and orange, so that its taste becomes as voluminous as possible. Panzanella, a Tuscan salad with tomatoes and onions, is combined with zucchini, shrimp and artichokes and this elegant excess suits him very well. Spiced with egg yolk, mustard and grana padano, beef tartare accompanies crispy Roma lettuce leaves on ice – why not an alternative all’italiano burger?

  • The hot dishes, which include a grilled Florentine steak, sea bass aqua pazza and a surprisingly generous portion of ossobuco with risotto from Milan, worth ordering for two, are preceded by risotto and pasta. In crab squid, there is almost more delicious meat than pasta, the lamb neck stew stuffing is packed in a cheerful striped agnolotti dough that echoes the graphics of the wall, risotto cooked in shrimp biscuit or strong mushroom broth and porcupine porridge, disagrees about the level of serotonin in desserts – they add soft creamy mascarpone cheese to it. If the Italian chefs decided to recreate their kitchen, updating all the keys and passwords, it could very well be done as Rocky sees it.

  • San

  • If hotel restaurants are rare for us, then a theater restaurant is completely exotic. It is this curiosity that appeared in the building of the Et Cetera theater in Myasnitskaya. The restaurant is named San, in honor of the gastronomic capital of the world, San Sebastian.

  • For Myasnitskaya, full of cheap and fast food, the San is really big and ahead, you look through the panoramic windows and you become shy. But do not do it! Because the menu here is short, without decorative elements, prices are average in Moscow. Yes, some kind of brisket or sea bass on vine leaves cooked for 1000 rubles, but at the same time, they cook a nice and very risotto cheese for only 360 rubles, where you can add shrimp, spinach or stratsiatella to your choice (260 rubles for selection). For starters, ramiro pepper with stratsiatella is good, and for dessert, be sure to get the honorable San Sebastian cheesecake – it’s perfectly made here.

  • Shrimp risotto

  • Although Sun lives an independent life, he does not forget that he is next to the theater. You can get a 10% discount on theater tickets here. And an hour before the show, a door opens between the restaurant and the theater foyer, so theatergoers now have a place to eat and discuss the nuances of the show with famous and not-so-famous actors after the show.

  • Traditional

  • In Legends of Tsvetnoy, right between Probka and Chaikhona No. 1, opened the Folk restaurant. Vladimir Chistyakov (Buro TSUM, Grace Bistro) is his chef and he does his best here – food that is not only simple and complex at the same time, but has the mood to make friends, to love and admire all living things in the world.

  • The main characters of the restaurant are a large table for groups right at the entrance, a wood stove, which implies that there is even more fire in the kitchen, from barbecue to host, a large bar with a bench that is comfortable to sit. and look around you, and cute Georgians playing polo: a big picture has been painted in this surreal story.

  • While looking at all this and many other nice details, tortillas will appear on the table coming out of wooden bowls with hats, and lahmatzoun (this is the eastern cousin of Italian pizza) with minced meat and beans or with tapenade olives, squid and lecho. Tortillas need all kinds of spreads such as hummus with raisins or roasted eggplant with seeds. It is already clear that Chistyakov walks around the Caucasus and the Middle East, as if in his own warehouse, and takes from these two traditions what he likes best. Beef tartare? Leave it with salted lemons and oil in Georgian adjika. Sea bass; We wrap it in vine leaves like a big dolma. Ailaj corn porridge? Why not add truffles, morels and pistachios from Aegina? Even around the kebabs, there is a complicated path: here is salmon with dates, and talagani cheese with chestnut honey and beef toast with baked potatoes. The best choice for hot is the beef fillet with roasted grapes. The meat is fried in many steps so that it turns out to be completely tender and you do not need sous vide for it. The sweet scorched raisins with a sour glow suit him very well.

  • Ailage with truffle

  • Not only did Folk immediately become a successful place, but it can also create a trend for a postmodern rethink of national cuisine, where the author’s truth and fiction are intertwined in a new beautiful reality.

  • no

  • A small coffee-confectionery was hidden in the back streets of the second line of Novoslobodskaya. Such addresses in secret courtyards are usually shared only with the closest and dearest, because they want to maintain a private, neighborly warm atmosphere. In a bright place they expect breakfast from 8.30 on weekdays and from 9.30 on weekends, lunch, dinner, wine and cake gatherings.

  • The food here is simple, made from quality ingredients: a large green salad, a flawless croc madam with pastrami and fried eggs, a huge one that says “a big piece and your mouth is happy”, a sandwich with red caviar, beef fillet with roasted roman and perfect puree – “Kafemania”, let’s go!

  • Great green salad

  • Desserts are classics that everyone loves without exception. Amber translucent tart tatin, roasted fire Basque cheese pie with semi-moist waist, crispy “Napoleon”, coming out hot, flirting shu – all of which have already become bestsellers here.

  • The creators of Nobo would like to open a few more outlets, there are rumors of another five before the end of the year.

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