No fish, no meat. St. Petersburg restaurants compose an anti-crisis menu – Business – Saint-Petersburg News

photo by Sergey Nikolaev / Fontanka.ru / archive
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The catering establishments face a shortage of fish, seafood, premium meats and imported alcohol. Russian suppliers have also increased their prices amid growing demand and high imports. Belarus and China will not help yet.

Despite the import substitution process that began after 2014, the share of foreign products in the restaurant menu in the northern capital remained impressive, says Alexander Markov, head of the representative office of the Federation of Restaurants and Hoteliers in St. Petersburg. Following the launch of a special operation in Ukraine and the imposition of sanctions on Russia, imports were suspended due to supply chain disruptions and payment difficulties. In case of shortage, suppliers increase prices by 20 to 70%, and restaurants actively review the menu both in terms of cost and composition of dishes.

According to market participants, the most tense situation is with seafood and fish. According to Vitaly Svidovsky, co-owner of the Teremok chain in Fontanka, prices for red fish have risen by 80%. “Norway has suspended cooperation and even the borders are closed. “Chile is cooperating with us, but the missions are passing through Europe and that is stopping them,” he said. There are problems with Russian fish farms, which get brood and feed from Norway. “If Norway refuses to supply, this poses a serious risk to fish production,” he said.

The deficit hit the specialized and non-networked forms harder. Thus, in March, the Japanese street food bar Ennichi on Kolokolnaya Street suspended its operations until May 1. According to its founder, Kazuhiko Kijima, in Fontanka, seafood has risen in price by 10-30%, alcohol – by 30%. According to him, salmon was supplied from Norway, shrimp and octopus from Asia. “We increased the price, but of course this is not very good for the visitors,” the businessman commented. The number of visitors also decreased. “That’s why they took a break,” Kazuhiko Kijima explained. At the same time, the foundation is reviewing the format. After the restart, the focus will be on the drinks. Japanese products have also become more difficult to buy, so their own production is actively involved in import substitution. “Now we make our own miso, soy sauce and so on,” he says.

Bistro Grebeshki focused on products from Murmansk and the Far East, but 20% came from imports. “We have Argentine and Chilean octopuses and Japanese oysters so expensive that they abandoned this collection,” said Mitrofan Blainis, Managing Partner. According to him, before the start of the special operation in Ukraine, Japanese oysters were bought for 130 rubles each and now cost 360 rubles. But Russian suppliers are also raising prices. Grebeshki has reprinted the menu twice in the last two weeks. The bistro notes that the market also has problems with the supply of pasta. “We make the pasta ourselves, there are no problems, but our colleagues are screaming,” commented Mitrofan Blainis.

The chain of Portuguese cafes “Pasteish and Coffee” closed one of the stores on Chapaeva Street and left the full menu in the store on Gatchinskaya Street – now only pastries, soups and drinks are in the collection. According to the foundation, prices have risen, suppliers have stopped buying some products. For example, octopus and scallops of the required caliber can not be found. The company also has difficulty finding staff. There are no deadlines for restarting the full menu yet, but Pasteis and Coffee do not rule out this happening until the summer.

“Fish restaurants have been actively involved in import substitution in recent weeks,” said Alexander Markov. “Some say it turns out to be even more interesting in a domestic product,” he notes.

But meat is also becoming more expensive. Some of the products for restaurants were also supplied from abroad. But according to market participants, Miratorg, the largest domestic manufacturer, has raised prices. It is not yet possible to find more affordable products in Belarus. “Belarusians say they do not have much to offer, because the Chinese choose everything,” says Alexander Markov.

“Chicken and meat are becoming more expensive because feed is becoming more expensive,” notes Vitaly Svidovsky. According to him, “Teremok” buys products made in Russia, but for many positions there is an import element. Suppliers have increased prices by 10 to 40%, says the businessman. The menu has not changed yet, but from March 1, the company increased prices by 1.5% and from April 1 there will be a new index adjustment by 5-7%.

Restaurants also have problems with imported alcohol. “One of the beers is no longer available, the other is said to be out this week,” said Nikolai Belusov, co-owner of the Finnegans Irish pub chain and Vietnamese Joly Woo. The company is now looking for a replacement among other European brands and domestic producers. Products for Vietnamese cuisine have risen in price from 30 to 60%. So far, cafes have raised prices by 10 to 15%.

Andrey Pertsev, founder of Ognivo, also notes the problem with seafood and imported wine and champagne. “Suppliers increased prices by 20-60%, about 2-3 times. “Maybe in 2-3 weeks there will be no goods at all,” he says. According to the restaurant, while the champagne wines in Ognivo have been replaced by more affordable analogues. For other dishes, the company will refuse the decoration or seek replacement without compromising on quality. “For example, they played with a one-gram fish sole – they got smaller in size,” he notes.

Restaurants also have problems with confectionery ingredients – sugared almonds and berries, nuts, pasta and some are sugar-deficient, says Alexander Ruzhinsky, head of the Restograd association. . But a deadly shortage, which could lead to extensive closure, has not yet been observed. “Communities have emerged to guide professional shoppers in this turbulent time, created by industry enthusiasts. For example, the telegram channel “Restaurants need” or SupportLocal by Alexander Sysoev “, comments.

The Federation of Restaurants and Hoteliers also does not expect mass closures, it will probably be about changing the form. “For example, there was a Japanese restaurant, it will become a burger,” he notes. New positions for the public catering market are opening up with the departure of foreign companies – especially McDonald’s. It can be replaced by democratic forms – inflatable, burger, pastry.

The fact that McDonald’s will be replaced by cutlets, puff pastry, pasta, cafes was announced today by the President of the Federal Council Valentina Matviyenko. The Teremok chain is considering installing five food trucks near the closed McDonald’s stores in St. Petersburg and is also ready to hire some employees if the company decides to leave the market permanently.

Galina Boyarkova,
Fontanka.ru

photo by Sergey Nikolaev / Fontanka.ru / archive
photo by Sergey Nikolaev / Fontanka.ru / archive

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