Our red guide opened his eyes to the pearls that were hidden under our noses. Restaurant critic Vladimir Gridin went to the Michelin-starred restaurant Parisienne and found pieces of the past.
Michelin Guide Opinion: “The “Parisien”, opened at the pavilion in 1882, combines luxury and elegance: seven-meter ceilings, silver plaster, furniture in the style of that time and authentic tiles … In this special atmosphere, we experience unlimited enjoyment from the chef masterpieces: borscht, fried halibut with mashed potatoes and spinach … Both the food and the wine are of excellent quality. Huge terrace“.
So it immediately turned out that the building in which the Parisienne restaurant is now located was doomed to be a part of the past from the beginning of its existence. It was built as the royal pavilion of the Pan-Russian trade, industrial and artistic exhibition, which opened in 1882 in Moscow on the Khodynka field. Only he was left from the exhibition, the other kiosks were temporary, folding. After the end of the exhibition, which was something like VDNKh from the time of Alexander III, they were dismantled and moved to other places. Only the royal pavilion remained.
Parisienne restaurant in the Tsarskaya square district
Designed for the “relaxation of the highest persons”, it was built in Russian style and richly decorated. The facades are decorated with colored tiles with patterns and the interiors – the chambers of the emperor and empress, the study, the dining room, the living room – are rich in stucco and carvings. Both the tiles, and the carvings and the putties have been preserved from the moment of construction. It could be a real museum of neo-Russian style. Modern designers have kept almost everything. The former black and white floor was painted by them with silver and gold and ages beautifully with time, but the columns covered with silver and plaster in Russian style were clearly colorful and shone with colors brighter than the peacock’s tail. But now they are a set with inlaid crystals and walls decorated with mother-of-pearl mosaics and mirrors.
Even before the revolution, Moscow gave the pavilion to the ski club, as skiers were then called, on the condition that they would hold free lessons with children, and the Young Pioneers Stadium was developed from it. The stand, where the stadium party committee, the local committee and the members of Komsomol met, somewhat outgrew the noise of the competition, until, in 2003, it was finally occupied by a restaurant. The Parisienne was immediately designed as a reminder of the celebrations for high society, for the elite. And the elite always and everywhere chooses French cuisine, which is clearly indicated by the name of the restaurant. Only the word “chic” is missing to indicate accurately: life is good.
The interior of the Parisienne restaurant
For the last 12 years, Christian Maurino, originally from Provence, has been in charge of the restaurant. The “Biarritz” soup with oysters in white wine, red mullet and asparagus with tomatoes was and remains a success of the restaurant. Kristina Orbakaite, Vladimir Solovyov, Alexander Rosenbaum, Nikolay Baskov and Alexander Shirvindt came to try it, beef tourne with foie gras scallop and black truffle, duck leg with wine sauce, halibut with potatoes and other potatoes. At the banquets (and they ask themselves here: the interiors are amazing, the rooms secluded, the kitchen luxurious) football teams, hockey players embracing the Stanley Cup and members of the Romanov family celebrated victories and anniversaries. Due to the pandemic, Maurino had to leave the restaurant until better times. Ivan Usakov is now acting leader. Maurino’s right hand speaks fluently the techniques of French cuisine.
Photos on the walls of the Parisienne restaurant
French speakers nostalgic for Paris will be happy to learn their French while reading the menu. In Russian, the names of the dishes sometimes seem awkward-touristy. Thus, thaïlandaise salad is transformed into Abergine salad (crispy eggplant, vegetables and Thai sauce), portions of de poulpe in Saint-Tropez octopus and salade de St. Jacques et crevettes, that is, with scallops and shrimp, in the Piquant salad.
The menu includes dishes that pay homage to great teachers, such as Bocuse soup and Troisgros salmon, and in areas such as Lyonnaise salad. The latter is a sophisticated version of the Lyon recipe with nuts. Thin smoked duck breast petals are added to the frieze instead of bacon, asparagus and mushrooms, cheese instead of croutons, poached on the spot.
Bocuse soup is a simplified version of the famous VGE soup, which the classic of French gastronomy and the father of the Bocuse d’Or competition served at the Palais des Champs-Elysées on the occasion of the awarding of the Legion of Honor, giving it its name. in honor of the then President of France Valerie Giscard d’Estaing. The original recipe calls for 25 grams of truffles and 50 grams of goose liver per serving, which, along with slices of chicken breast and fried vegetables, are baked under a puff pastry head in tall bowls. Parisienne has truffles and foie gras in the soup, but not in such quantities. “Bocuse” is easy to carry, holding a plate with both hands, and dill and porcini mushrooms decorate the wonderful broth (who would have thought of dill in such a soup in Bocuse itself?).
The Troisgros salmon, which laid the foundation for the kitchen novel, is traditionally prepared. The pink flesh of a raw oily fish with a beautifully fried crust, a rich creamy sorrel sauce that sparkles with sour and leaves a long aftertaste – a wonderful thing!
A French souvenir set in Tsarist Russia – there is nothing more appealing to the Red Guide inspector. I would be in his place for “Parisian“And he did not regret the stars, especially because the food here is very good. Funders from the neighboring Monarkh business center, CSKA and Dynamo executives, and well-to-do residents of the Tsarskaya Ploshchad district, whose skyscrapers now surround the restaurant, also understand it and spare no money for it. to reach 5,000 rubles here.
The opinion of the author may not coincide with the opinion of the authors
You will like it:
It’s hard to carry and it’s a shame to leave: why the Chemodan restaurant got into the Michelin guide
* Discounts, gifts, offers and other news that you should know first – on our Instagram and Facebook page. Register!