elegant relaunch of the restaurant with the same generosity

Alexey Pinsky re-launched the Farang restaurant in Malaya Nikitskaya. Impressive new menu dishes: tandoor goat with Uzbek tomatoes, two kinds of quail, yin and yang soup

Photo: Farang

Aleksey Pinsky relaunched the Farang restaurant at Malaya Nikitskaya 24, Building 1. Now everything is stylish: a new gray ceiling instead of the old bright orange, white tablecloths on the new round tables, an elegant one-page menu and a new chef, Aziz Saffar. Everything has been updated, even the music. Aleksey’s generosity in portion size and his passion for treating his friends to extremely expensive wine, and especially the honored guests to get 40-year-old port wine from personal buckets, remained unchanged.

Chef Aziz Saffar was born in Morocco, spent his childhood and youth in France and has lived in Moscow for 26 years. He is known in the gastronomic world of Moscow for his virtuoso work with seafood and the ability to create culinary masterpieces from simple products.

Thanks to such a tandem of two chefs, the two famous golden tandoors in Farang began to operate at full capacity: perhaps now this is one of the few places in Moscow where not only cakes but also meat and seafood are obtained from the tandoor.

Behind the outside atmosphere there is a serious restructuring of the restaurant’s operating model: the dishes now consist of 85% local products, many are bought in the morning in the market, the gaps were removed from the kitchen as much as possible and they started working with the product in the beginning it “bought – sold – bought”, reducing write-offs and residues. We optimized the staff, completely rebuilt and strengthened the service.

As a result, perfect products, perfect freshness, perfect techniques are obtained at the exit to the room. Seemingly simple dishes on the menu play with bright unforgettable flavors and most of the dishes are served in front of you.

An interesting tomato appeared in the appetizers – they cook it in the kitchen for a long time and serve it on a wooden spoon. The famous vegetable salad, which first migrated in reduced form from Alexei Pinsky’s Regent restaurant, changed beyond recognition with the arrival of Aziz Saffar. We only talked about this salad for about twenty minutes. The ideal composition is not only elegant in presentation, but also virtuoso in terms of taste balance. I revealed secrets especially for our readers, because spring is coming and the ingredients are all clear: transparent slices of fresh vegetables (black radish, turnip, daikon), salicornia (sea asparagus), figs, star anise, carrots and two carrots , salad dressing boiled from peanuts and before serving, lettuce leaves are immersed in carbonated water, thanks to the water the leaves acquire a graphic freshness and pleasant saltiness. Decorate the salad with happy flowers. Comrade grooms, you can come to visit me without flowers, but with such a bouquet of vegetables.

Photo: Farang

From the intermediate dishes between hot and cold dishes, I will note the tartar with perfect french fries, and although the tartare is good, plump, for me the potato turned out to be the main character here, so delicious that you will forget about breaking it. closed McDonald’s.

What else you should definitely try: artichokes with parmesan, Pacific octopus, take it in two forms – a generous carpaccio and in the form of a generous hot. Two kinds of hot soup: a “yin and yang”, half a pumpkin and half a chestnut, more foie gras found in the soup (added for finesse, but it is very likely without it) and a great rich onion soup. Prices for snacks dance around 2 thousand rubles, but given the size of the portion and the quality of the products, the prices are quite sufficient.

The hot section has changed beyond recognition, it has become light and refined.

Quail in two forms: with Jerusalem artichoke puree and Jerusalem artichoke chips and boiled in vine leaves. These quails, indistinguishable at first glance, bring them in pots, and in front of your eyes, these fruits turn into gastronomic beauty. From the bottom of the pots come all the vegetable treasures and sauce that are hidden there. Both quails are good and very different.

The same magic happens with the heroine of the night – a farm chicken. Chicken is considered a very simple dish for restaurants: it is very banal in taste and it is rather difficult to make a culinary masterpiece from it. In Farang, the chicken is simmered in a pot with whole fennel and whole artichokes, olives and curry are added. I also found a grape there. As a result, from the unsightly chicken that was presented to you in the pan five minutes ago, an amazing taste is born in the dish. We can say that Farang repeated the success of the famous poularde de bresse from French three star Michelin restaurants.

An impressive dish of the new menu is the goat. A goat leg is baked in tandoor with aromatic set: fennel, rosemary, thyme. Served with Uzbek tomatoes, which are dehydrated for 36 hours at a temperature of 50 degrees, thin lemon peel and spring morel were found in the sauce. The dish is very elegant and festive. Only the goat was a little bitter, maybe from the herbs that are spread in the tandoor.

It makes sense to come to Farang with a large group: the portions are huge.

And no matter how full you are, you can not leave without sweets. Apple gratin with salted caramel, sour cream and sweet dates with Paticière cream. If you do not eat dates, then you get the perfect dessert without sugar, there is no sugar added to the apples, just a delicate cinnamon flavor. A simple but very interesting chocolate mousse decorated with a thin piece of gold. It seems that this piece is the only thing left from the last menu “Horde”.

One of the characteristics of Farang, and in fact of many fine restaurants, is the expensive wine. Due to restrictions on the import of bottles over 300 euros, the restaurant’s wine lists, if the sanctions are not lifted, will undergo drastic changes. I was told how the cellars are selling out now. A good wine cellar costs an average of 3 to 5 million euros. So, at the end of the dinner, drinking 50 grams of 40-year-old porto wine from Alexei Pinski’s personal stocks, we laughed: “We are finishing the last one”. Interesting moments are coming for restaurants and restaurants. Adaptability applies to them, as it does to many businesses. It only saves our natural optimism.

The Farang update is just the beginning. They even promise to remove the famous six-meter carpet from the ceiling, play the piano and bring trees to life.

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