Gourmet everyday – Style – Kommersant

On the Waves of Memory with Vladimir Mukhin

The new set of the most famous Russian chef of our time, Vladimir Mukhin, is called “Back to the Future”. It contains both the trends of the domestic cuisine and the most personal memories of the visitors of Chef`s Table.

The aim of the 12-course menu is not to return completely and utterly to the Soviet past (although the names of the dishes are entirely Soviet) and, moreover, not to use primitive food combinations, but to show a modern interpretation of it. traditional favorite delicacies. How food can evoke childhood memories is beautifully illustrated in the adorable Ratatouille cartoon. Strict restaurant critic Antoine Ego tries this simple vegetable dish and takes it back to childhood: a broken bike, next to it – tearful and with a broken knee. And suddenly my mother appears, smiling with an encouraging smile, and in her hands is a steamy plate with ratatouille.

Vladimir Mukhin decided to use the experience and in his latest tasting sets “Black Swan”, “Metamorphoses” and “From Nothing” he presented the serving, which he named “Food as Medicine”. At the same time, he asked the guests to share in advance their favorite memories of their favorite homemade dish and tried to recreate it in the kitchen with the nostalgic goal of returning a person to a happy childhood.

The first thing you will hear at the beginning of the gastronomic show “Back to the Future”, which Mukhin personally directs, is that the Chef`s Table is his home and invites you to his place. It will show three cookbooks from the past, one of which he memorized – this is the first Soviet gastronomic edition “The Book of Tasty and Healthy Food”, published on the initiative of the People’s Commissar for the Food Industry of the USSR Anastas Mikoyan. During the show there will be other stories from Vladimir’s childhood, very personal and warm.

At the bar, before the start of the action, the cremant will be served in a porcelain cup by Dulevo Porcelain Factory. The first portion is the “grandma’s pancakes” (either in the form of a snowflake cut from parchment, or in a crocheted napkin) with all possible types of caviar: pike, sturgeon and albino sturgeon, rustic, grilling and salmon. Next, a mini portion of Olivier in a crispy tart with smoked Baltic eel, pickled peas and graying caviar is served with a cocktail based on a baked potato and vodka in a versatile glass. “Mimosa” salad with crab (which according to the menu legend could have been brought by someone’s older brother from Kamchatka) and crab caviar, with yolk marinated in salt on Thursday, which tastes like bottarga, pressed mullet caviar. A glass of marinated corn “milk” will be served with the salad. The herring under a fur coat is served with yogurt instead of mayonnaise and with a large rose, spread out with thin slices of beetroot petals. Grilled potatoes are served with a generous portion of Murmansk urchin and soy sauce, as well as tangerines.

Beer sweets, where the meat is wrapped in a zucchini flower instead of the expected fatty dough, are served with non-alcoholic beer from organic acids. Instead of the usual marinated fish, here you will see Baltic fragrant, always with milk in Berblanc sauce. Traditional sour cream pasta is served wrapped in a large chinkali and drizzled with Krasnodar Morel Sauce (now their season has just begun).

For dessert – Love is chewing gum with caramel in your mouth, Chupa-Chups that glow in the dark and the most intimate memory of Mukhin – Honey cake, or to be more precise – honey cake cream, which Mukhin himself collected as child finger from the edges of this cake.

Tickets and schedule are on the Chef`s Table website.

Smolenskaya Square, 3, Smolensky Gassage

More creative mornings

This time around the Central Department Store on Dmitrovsky Lane in the smart and bright Londri with white tablecloths on the tables. We must admit that the atmosphere of this restaurant is favorable both for relaxed breakfasts without rush on weekends and, conversely, for very formal and serious breakfasts on weekdays.

In the new menu you can try two types of the so-called typical hotel breakfast buffet with boiled egg and cereal bread, served with mortadella and alpine cheese or lightly salted salmon, red caviar and avocado, as well as a green salad with avocado. broccoli and edamame beans.

Chef Alexander Shtepa is constantly experimenting and adding non-standard breakfast options, such as writer’s tweezers – a small pizza from a brass oven. In Londri it is baked with truffle, parmesan, camembert and stratsiatella / salmon and ricotta / bacon and tomato sauce. Slim and elegant, it will not burden your breakfast, but will give it an unusual taste.

Londri also serves a French crab omelette (this is already in the form of Moscow, as crab dishes are often found on the morning menus of metropolitan restaurants) or omelette with truffles and cereal bread, as in the romantic L’Ecailerie market in Biarritz. a hearty dish – fried eggs with grilled chicken sausages and bacon, oatmeal and more.

Dmitrovsky Lane, 11

Daily, breakfast from 9:00 to 13:00, on weekends – until 14:00

Olga Karpova

Leave a Comment