Patrick – a new restaurant in its place

The menu of the restaurant looks like “the joy of patricism”: gnocchi with black caviar and parmesan cream, black cod donuts with romesco sauce, foie gras terina, Provencal scallops with potatoes and tomatoes, sweet shrimp with fresh strawberries

Photo: Patrick

Surprisingly, just now a restaurant appeared in Patrick, which is called Patrick. This is the second joint work of Anton Pinsky, Artem Losev and Vitaly Istomin, which goes door to door with the first, very popular AVA project. It has just opened and bookings have already been scheduled for two months in advance.

Patriki was invented as a French fishing bistro. The interior is light and elegant: green walls, marble kitchen. Arched, deliberately crooked mirror. Huge silver cases for napkins in the form of shells, brought by the creators from the market of old Paris. A little France, a little art. But the February collapse hit, fish and seafood prices became secular and some of the locations were simply inaccessible. The opening had to be postponed, but chefs Vitaly Istomin and Artem Losev quickly shifted their focus and redesigned the menu to what they do best: simple, delicious food for every day with intense sexual intercourse. Served in beautiful dishes with pink French pastoral flowers.

The menu for a tiny 28-seat restaurant is simply huge. I suggest you close your eyes and ask for everything at the table. The dishes are served quickly and like a homemade tablecloth in front of you, gnocchi with black caviar and parmesan cream, black cod donuts with romesco sauce, foie gras terina with gingerbread, tartare and crouto, a shiny and fresh algo salad with kourato , sea scallops with tomatoes, sweet shrimps with fresh strawberries.

It is best to come here with a group – seven people can fit at the largest table. If you go with a group of two people, you will have to go through seven times to try the whole menu, provided you get different things and try each other.

My personal success is the Provencal scallops with potatoes and tomatoes. Be sure to catch the spicy turkey with puree and sauce, a dish perfect for its simplicity and beautifully executed. The beef sauce is probably the best in Moscow. I’m excited about the way the kids handle the sauces: they are chosen for each dish with different textures and flavors, while the sauces are always kept in a delicate background. Mastery.

Istomin-Losev’s duet is not only charisma, diligence, but also fine professional humor. If at AVA the chefs serve a social media star, cream on a light gold blanket, then in Patrick they added a bit of Moscow irony: there is a joke that crab, caviar, truffle oil and gold are everywhere in modern Moscow cuisine. . “So why not make a joke with it?” – the children thought and replaced the rice in the sushi with crab, they got light sushi – not sushi: solid protein without harmful (by Moscow standards) white rice. This sushi without rice immediately became a success, now there are three types on the menu: eel, salmon, scallop. The crab is still present in cakes made in the kutab way. These flatbreads are accompanied by mango-chili sauce, on which a smile is drawn with green butter. At one point, I pushed these cakes away from me – you start eating them like seeds, not paying attention to how you are already chewing the fifth square. Children have the talent to create bright, ironic dishes that are both understandable and delicious, and you want to come back for them.

My new love is gratin parsnips with a wonderful sauce and pecans and pumpkin with stratsiatella. But love did not happen to Romano peppers – sour. Orzo also can not be taken yet: compared to orzo in Folk, it is rustic.

The dessert is a real glycemic ecstasy: apple pie, lemon tart with a magical portion. Everything flows, breaks with spoons. The most modest in this dessert is the cheesecake, served with ice cream from your favorite poppy seeds and cherries. Now I know where is the most delicious cheesecake in Moscow.

In the simple interior of the Patriki restaurant, every inch is decorated: nothing superfluous, only the necessary. And it is still amazing how 28 landings were organized in such a tiny space.

I’m sure you will return to Patricia more than once. There are sincere feelings – after all, that is what we value most now.

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