A new Russian bar, a Japanese suite and 1980s-style meetings – restaurant critic Alexander Ilyin talks about the week’s highlights.
ag. Sadovaya-Karetnaya, 18
Perepel Bar has the oldest location in Moscow, which sounds like a line from a song by Vladimir Vysotsky: on the corner of Sadovaya-Karetnaya and Karetny Ryad. The declared item is “new Russian bar”. Usually such statements do not mean anything good, but not this time: Perepel was invented by Dmitry Sokolov (Mr. Help, Law & Son, Black Hat bars) and Eva Chernysheva (15 Kitchen + Bar). The main idea, in short, are Russian drinks and Russian snacks. The menu of the bar includes 13 exclusively authentic liqueurs ranging from “horseradish with honey apples” to “steamed buckwheat with heather honey” (all for 280 rubles) and cocktails with names such as Borsch Spritz (shoe syrup, beetroot syrup, cucumber soda) ) and Russian Negroni (Russian gin, plum wine, bitter chamomile) – all for 550 rubles.
They are offered to eat whole, for example, with Perm posikunchiki (370 rubles), beef jelly with pork hooves (490 rubles) and a large, even huge sandwich with boiled pork and pickles (690 rubles). You can, however, eat more carefully – order a plate of fish soup with vodka (590 rubles), nautical shells with juniper (690 rubles) or chicken cutlets (590 rubles). Weekends promise DJs who, it seems, should play something like that.
New Square, 14
The Japanese restaurant Tottori opened without much fuss in February and it is clear why – this is the work of billionaire Alexei Repik, who is known in the restaurant world mainly as the owner of Twins Garden, scattered with all kinds of stars. like a raspberry bush. In general, this is not the case. The menu is small and at first glance leaves the impression “well, as everywhere”. Salmon tataki (920 rubles) and gyoza with shrimp (560 rubles) and yakitori skewers in variety, and donburi rice, which the Japanese love, are stacked in a pile. However, in reality, not everything is like that, but quite the opposite, again these cursed translation difficulties.
Tottori is an irreconcilable Japanese luxury, and its version in Moscow, that is, tougher than anywhere else. For example, wagyu is brought from Kagoshima Province (rather cool) by plane, the most expensive noodle machine was bought, the chef is Japanese (I think they call it Kazu). Design – Well, this is the design at Vasilek Cafe, but here it’s just a museum, you can just grab a bowl of ramen, sit with it for half an hour and look around. There are eight types of ramen, two with wagyu – sliced (1,440 rubles) and chopped (990 rubles). You can also order wagyu in the form of miniature steak, ribeye or striploin (5,600 rubles per 150 grams). It is true that it is not very clear to the public – at noon Tottori is empty and it is difficult to hope for a delivery with food of this level.
ag. New Arbat, 5
Not so much a bar as a vignette – located in the far corner of the Abbey Players pub, occupying, God forbid, 20 square feet, open from 18:00. The declared item is a sake bar. The founders, of course, are Denis Bobkov, co-owner of Pub Life Group, which owns the aforementioned Abbey Players, Vitaly Bgantsov (Water, Veladora), and Black Swan and Bambule chef Artem Mukhin. Sake, by the way, is stored here in the refrigerator, standing right in the middle of the room and served in glasses of ice. All cocktails cost 700 rubles. The table is one and only and, if desired, shared. Next to him, chef Mukhin prepares appetizers, mostly Japanese sandwiches that have been made unexpectedly – with a doctor sausage (and this is not funny, 410 rubles) and shrimp cutlets (590 rubles).
Fun, noisy, full, full of graffiti all around. Music is played on Hitachi radio. If you do not like it, you can browse the cassettes and choose something closer to your heart. In general, zoomers have discovered concentrations in the style of the 1980s. Well, plus sake.
Bolshoi Patriarchate per, 8, building 1
A typical band of the Patriarch Ponts neighborhood, full of local quotes – a little bad, at best aesthetics, everything seems to be hit by life, but obviously very expensive. And crimson, like a pioneering tie, sofas. The very first critique of the Web states with enthusiasm: “The worst restaurant in Patrick!” Well, experienced people understand: you definitely have to go. At the beginning of the project is a whole squad of restaurant executives with varying degrees of fame, plus Gregory Leps.
The chef was replaced by the brave Gleb Geiger (formerly “Geraldine”, “Generation”), who very accurately defined Zoya’s kitchen as a clochard deluxe. What is? Well, for example, an urban duck doshik (960 rubles), Wellington pasta sausage (960 rubles), herring carpaccio with vincotto sauce, truffle and onions (670 rubles) and porcini mushrooms marinated with wasabi root (5 rubles). It is clear that this is not a doshik, nor a sausage and generally no carpaccio, but it works perfectly in immature minds. By the way, for drinks. In Zoika they serve spirits accompanied by the so-called antidoras (in other words, to drink something) and the most memorable of them is “Halva, string, smell of vodka, cinnamon, cigarette smoke” (450 rubles), and it tastes just like that . A rare unit of speech and action.