Patrick and Rocky – Weekend – Kommersant

Paternal

Win-win caramel cheesecake

Next to the AVA in Bolshaya Bronnaya, another joint project by restaurateur Anton Pinsky (Pinskiy & Co) and chefs Artem Losev and Vitaly Istomin opened under the distinctive name Patriki. This discovery is remarkable as it very clearly articulates the current trends in the Moscow restaurant industry, which is clearly going through a period of timelessness and global loss of meaning. Patrick appeared in the place of the very visible Lotus, which was opened by Anton Pinsky a few years ago in collaboration with Arkady Novikov and Glenn Ballis. The then topical issue of Southeast Asia, which marked the beginning of a whole series of projects, slowly faded, but AVA, which “shot” half a year ago with its glamorous comfort food, went to Patrick with triumph and became a kind an amulet of a new trio of restaurants, announced with a bang on the market with a dimensionless eclair of invisible writing and dessert sausages with peas, created especially for photography. It was in this general line that the new trio began to develop a joint venture, opening after AVA another restaurant with the same architect Irina Glik, with about the same plans, about the same cuisine, and most importantly, with the most loyal audience that AVA permanently does not have enough space, the demand for the format is so great. The very idea is not to look for a “new package” for a project, if it sells well in the old, it inspires respect. In fact, Patriki is another AVA room, simply with its own kitchen and a slightly modified menu. It will be very easy to make a choice between facilities – where there is a free reservation, go there. And this seems to be a global symbolism – in fact, all the trendy restaurants in Patrick and Moscow as a whole have been transformed into one big restaurant with the same music, similar hosts and waiters, indistinct layouts and interiors and completely integrated food. Anton Pinski, who has a great sense of trends, with his fellow chefs, brought this generalization to its logical conclusion and as a result received Patriki. The interior and the menu leave an obsessive feeling that the restaurant was built quickly, without any “creativity freeze” and other unnecessary lyrics, according to the principle “hit while it was hot” – and from a commercial point of view, this is completely justified. We can even say that Patriki, with its sincere indifference to any missions and concepts, put an end to the prolonged era of postmodernism in the restaurant area and returned it to the binary world in which we all had to meet recently. The authors of “Patricks” convey the following topical idea – you do not need to spend money on creativity and graphics now, use what has already been developed. Self-report is not shameful, but productive and promising, it works. You can run your finger through the menu with your eyes closed and choose dishes in the same way – in any case, there will be a lot of crabs, truffle, black caviar, caramel. In addition, raw sets with oysters, hedgehogs, lobsters and other seafood – for 6900 rubles. and 2900 rubles, depending on the size of the portion. For sushi, instead of rice, chefs use crab pulp, on which they spread scallop, tuna and eel fillets (a set of three costs 1150 rubles), it turns out to be very luxurious and recognizable. On the white cabbage, the queen of St. Petersburg and progressive Moscow, the authors of the work also put the crab pulp, right between the leaves of the head (950 rubles) – and this works perfectly, because in the logic of Patricks, the cabbage with crab is better than cabbage without crab. Other top types include gnocchi with burrata and black caviar (1,250 rubles), risotto with morels and truffle oil (1,100 rubles), sea bass fillet with zucchini and pesto (1,350 rubles) and, of course, turmeric parmigiano. with mashed potatoes (90 rubles), this homemade dish, with honesty and professional performance, pleases the public just as guaranteed with the salted caramel cheesecake (590 rubles), reminiscent of secret night vigils over a box of boiled condensed milk. So if another free space appears next to Patriki, we already know what will exist.

Paternal (4/5)

Malaya Bronnaya street, 21/13, building 2, +7 (495) 098-01-20

Rocky

Decent Tuscan salad

Another new band, whose “anarchy” has become an idea, opened the restaurants Anatoly Lyapidevsky and Evgenia Tureykis (Bardot, Monkey Izakaya Bar). The Rocky restaurant opened in the same way as Patrick, in the next room at the Monkey Izakaya Bar. Only it did not become a branch, it will probably be the other way around, the Monkey Izakaya Bar is waiting for a serious rebranding. For chefs Vyacheslav Zavodchikov, Ramil Misbakhov and confectioner Ella Kurashova, this is the first joint project as a chef. Their common route includes Beluga, Fahrenheit, La Bella Societa, Loro and Krasota. At Rocky they cook Italian food in their characteristic vision. Why Italian? Yes, simply because this food is always in vogue in Moscow. Why copyright? Yes, because they are not Italians. No special missions, no drawn placements, no added value that the creators of the new ideas of the restaurant brand indulged in fat times. The interior of the Sundukov brothers is emphatically neutral, the menu contains classics with elements of twists, there is a little luxury pizza, raw bar, burrata with tomatoes (950 rubles), roasted ramiro peppers (700 rubles), beef vitello tonnato with muted sauce (850 rub) ), Fritto misto (1200 rubbing). From the more or less original – butterfly escolar (650 rubles) and grilled artichokes with sweet and sour tomato jam (990 rubles). Of the salads, you should pay attention to the Tuscan salad with shrimp (1250 rubles), although it would be just as good without them thanks to the right tomato base and fried chiambata. But seafood plays the same sacred animal role in Rocky as in Patrick. For hot dishes, you can order ossobuco with Milanese risotto (1,550 rubles), Florentine steak (900 rubles), beef cheeks with potatoes (950 rubles) and sea bass al aqua pazza with vegetables (1,300 rubles). Everything is prepared with confidence, professionally and precisely balanced, but again Rocky leaves a strange feeling of devaluation or, more specifically, misunderstanding. Why did this restaurant appear? Why right here? What did the authors want to say? However, at this time, it is best not to ask such questions at all. Eat, okay.

Rocky (4/5)

Bolshaya Dmitrovka street, 10, building 4, +7 (925) 136-10-04


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