Italians are crazy about their cuisine, the French often go to French restaurants, the Americans can not imagine a day without french fries and a burger, Japan has a cult for its own traditional dishes. But in Russia we love anything foreign (and, it should be noted, we cook it very well) – both Italian and French, and American and Japanese, but we often forget our own.
Anya Baturina, PEOPLETALK columnist, author of the Telegram Gastrology channel
PEOPLETALK columnist Anya Baturina studied our heritage and put together nine delicious and so different restaurants with Russian cuisine.
The modern Russian taste is comfortable food without exaggerations and unnecessary ailments. This is a work by the creators of the Bjorn restaurant, with which they wanted to emphasize that Russian cuisine can be simple, understandable, not homemade, but “for every day”. And the prank was a success, a completely different audience sitting here – from smart girls, awkward couples on first date to men with laptops and big drawings and charming grandmothers by the fireplace.
The decoration, as well as the details of some dishes, change according to the season. Now, for example, they planted raspberries on the terrace (look at “Bor” more often in July-August, you might get some berries) – it turned out to be such an edge in front of the forest.
Chef Andrey Fedoseev (now head of Michelin-starred Bjorn) shows Russian cuisine from an unexpected angle. No borscht or pasta, but there is a delicious goose pie with dried cranberries (by the way, geese are not so common on other restaurant menus) and a hit boleto with marinated butter and rye bread. In Fedoseev, even the asparagus does not look scary, the jelly is lightly beaten and spread on top. And lots of mushrooms everywhere.
Address: street. Pyatnitskaya, 9/28, building 1
It is difficult to call “LES” a restaurant of Russian cuisine, but this place with 100% Russian soul of chef and gastroenterologist Andrey Kolodyazhny. He recreated his own forest grove here, which can be reached by literally taking a step from Tverskoy Avenue. All the characteristics of the forest are present – from the plants to the sounds of nature in the toilet.
The menu focuses on seasonality and local ingredients. Sometimes they are so local that they are grown right in the restaurant – small greens on a vertical farm on the wall or tomatoes over the bar, for example. Kolodyazhny pays special attention to wild plants, berries and mushrooms, so on the menu you can easily find butter with mustard powder, root and liver pate, cabbage root risotto and twelve kinds of mushrooms in different dishes (you probably did not know about the existence of some).
Address: Tverskoy Boulevard, 9
Part of Dennis Ivanov, Siberia’s leading restaurant, is the pinnacle of modern Russian spirit. There are really carved rustic shutters on the roof, and collectible artel dolls, and grated samovars, and traditional Russian snacks and pickles, and taiga berry tinctures. And above the bar, like the Northern Lights (or Ilya Muromets chain), 10,000 spoons are shining.
It is best to get here as soon as possible for the Polar Spring set (before spring is over and you have not finally started to lose weight until summer). Chef Yevgeny Kuznetsov flirts with reindeer meat, serving it in the form of sliced meat with berry mousse and tartar with porcini mushrooms and reindeer moss (which actually eats deer) and the roasted heart of this northern animal. You can try everything separately, but not the fact that then you will feel the real hard, slow, cold spring of the Far North.
By the way, there are great brunch here (until 2pm on weekdays and until 4pm on weekends and holidays), so if deer is not your thing yet, then you can start the morning with pine nuts, Yakut flatbread and Mimosa »(which is a cocktail) in cloudberries.
The address: Smolensk ag., eight
Perepel New Russian Bar
At the intersection of Sadovaya-Karetnaya and Karetny Ryad, a “new Russian” bar was opened by Eva Chernyshova (15 Kitchen + Bar) and the legendary (wait, wait) gifted Dmitry Sokolov. He is the one who drinks Moscow for 18 consecutive years and it all started with the first cocktail bar in Russia – Help. The idea of the new installation is understandable Russian cuisine, local menu bar and “elegant minimalism in the interior” (as this style was called in traffic) with a carpet on the wall at the entrance and picturesque folklore.
The young and talented chef Yan Bychikhin is in charge of the bar menu, he showed his interpretation of the successes of Russian and Soviet cuisine – quail eggs stuffed with pike caviar, beef jelly with pork hooves, grechetto with navy porcini mushrooms ” and also a sandwich with sprat and kiwi. The menu of the bar is even more interesting here, because it contains entirely local products – Russian gin, whiskey, homemade kiwi fruit tinctures from the Moscow region and even rolls of linden.
Address: Sadovaya-Karetnaya, 18
Grand Cafe Dr. Zivago
A restaurant on the ground floor of the legendary National Hotel, where tradition and modernity are combined in one menu. People come here for breakfast after the hottest night parties and drink tea from vodka cups, bring parents and distant relatives to cabbage buns and pasta and strangers to get acquainted with the stylized Soviet Russian cuisine.
By the way, a new chef recently appeared here – Anton Kochura moved to Zhivago from Onegin Dacha to Rostov-on-Don. What to expect from him is another mystery, but that’s another reason to go in and order the entire menu, which former chef Alena Solodovichenko lovingly wrote, in case she won’t be there later. Lobster porridge with crayfish tails is always a winning option; it is on both the main menu and the breakfast menu. And yes, the terrace overlooking Manezhnaya Square is already open!
Address: street. Mokhovaya, 15, p. One
A guide to the world of Russian cuisine – the renowned chef of the restaurant Vlad Piskunov – is inspired by the old, calls the end of the 19th century “Belle Epoque of Russian gastronomy” and always keeps an interesting story about a dish in the reservation, so if it appears suddenly close to your table, take a break from your smartphone and get ready to listen (or rather, book a table for the famous “Moscow Lunch” with a history menu and stories). Here is Olivier according to the classics with crayfish and quail, pies, as from childhood, tea from a samovar of 1883.
By the way, to “try” “Matryoshka”, you do not need to stay in Moscow in May – Piskunov has already carefully marinated a picnic barbecue for you: classic pork, thin chicken or royal sturgeon. In addition to barbecue, you can take nature soup with you – it was packaged for an entire company or a large family. Valaam cabbage soup, also called mushroom soup, borsch with duck on beef, Moscow fish soup with sterling and salmon fish broth, you just have to heat it.
Address: Kutuzovsky prospect, 2/1, p. 6
Cafe Pushkin will be 23 in 2022 (June 4, let’s celebrate), Andrey Dellos opened it in 1999 with the idea of showing Russian noble cuisine. And until now, the place remains a cult not only among foreigners, but also tourists from Russia and the Muscovites themselves.
Permanent chef Andrey Makhov periodically organizes various unusual festivals – from the day of the soup to the week of the fire chickens. By the way, despite such an impressive history, Pushkin Cafe has something to surprise guests – not everyone knows, but there is a very nice summer terrace on the roof.
Address: Tverskoy Boulevard, 26A
One place Muscovites strongly associate with black caviar is the Beluga restaurant at the same National Hotel. And despite the fact that this delicacy exists in many restaurants, this institution comes to mind first of all. There are two dozen varieties of caviar and one of the largest vodka lists in the world (you can create your own pair).
Caviar and Russia is a stereotypical union. Chef Evgeniy Vikentiev collected our other delicacies and agricultural products in Beluga – Caspian Beluga, Far East scallop, domestic urchins, Murmansk octopus. Last year, the restaurant received a Michelin star. The excitement around the prize has already subsided, so there should be no problems with booking a table.
Address: street. Mokhovaya, 15/1, p. One
This spring, the restaurant’s famous chef, Viktor Beley, hit the story and compiled a special menu of old Russian dishes – zvara, skoblyanka, kalya and more. An expert in the history of Russian cuisine Pavel Syutkin (a candidate of historical sciences, for a moment) helped Belei to compose it with satisfaction. Attention, a teleportation to the table is possible in the 16th century and from there immediately to the 19th and the imperial feast.
Here are some excerpts from the menu: cheese with mushroom honey, kolobok pie, re-cooked with beef liver, onion and egg, good in cucumber brine with sandwich with charcoal and black caviar and koulaga with milk chocolate, viburnum or sauce . And they say that borscht here is a miracle how good it is. The pride of the restaurant is an open workshop with three large Russian ovens, where the dishes are cooked the old way – they wither for 6-18 hours.
Address: Rochdelskaya street, 15–41