new restaurant Sage by Vladimir Perelman and Dmitry Blinov – Afisha-Restaurants

  • Restaurant critic Elena Remchukova studied the first joint work of restaurant owner Vladimir Perelman and chef Dmitry Blinov and admits it turned out to be “surprisingly good”, but there are questions about ponytails.

  • The new Sage – at the intersection of Gruzinskaya and Brestskaya streets, known as the crossroads of the restaurant, people will call it “Blinov-Perelman restaurant” and try to get there by all possible means. Restaurants like this rarely open. It is considered both excellent and built with the mind.

  • The main one is the first visit to Moscow for a permanent job by the great chef Dmitry Blinov, the author and founder of the St. Petersburg gastronomic revolution. He came as a partner of Perelman, an ambitious and experienced businessman from Moscow, in the established base of supplies, staff, public relations and knowledge for the public of the capital. So far, though, Sage looks like the perfect collaboration. If the word “synergy” did not exist, it would have to be invented for this occasion. You enter the room – and there it is, synergy. He sits and smiles.

  • Sage Restaurant

  • Why is Blinov famous? The ability to combine flavors in one dish – especially sweet and savory. A large range of basic items with unusual puree and mousse sauce. This is such an American story, the best that Anglo-Saxon gastronomy has given to the world, a classic. It opened seven years ago and is still open. Petersburg Duo, the first Blinovsky restaurant and my favorite, by the way. Then Dmitri mastered and perfected the tartars that had become fashionable after Asia, then he worked with vegetables in the Scandinavian style. And for each of these specialties, he created a separate restaurant in St. Petersburg, and that’s elegant. The other day he opened another in St. Petersburg, which he named Frantsuza Bistrot in honor of the chef of the Harvest restaurant, nicknamed “French”. And now he brought to Moscow a team of all successes, an exhibition of achievements. We can say that Sage is Blinoff’s best.

  • What’s famous about Perelman (I Like Wine, “My Fish”)? Good, friendly service, possibility to get fresh seafood in Moscow at low prices, knowledge of our public and non-standard public relations. And it’s clear that Sage, which is in the same house as My Fish, is Perelmann’s best.

  • Vladimir Perelman and Dmitry Blinov

  • A large flat room, where everything is in common view, is unusual and skillfully zoned – these were designers from St. Petersburg, chosen by Blinov. He insisted on bright, old-school French bunnies on red leather menu covers.

  • Not all details are random. Pleasant tightness, without additional sounds and smells, the light seems to come from below. Let me give you an unexpected tip: dress lightly if you suddenly like it. It is suitable here. Sage is gently casual and festive. I agree anywhere, at the bar and at the common table – everywhere is fine. The restaurant opens at six in the evening, maybe that’s why I caught the atmosphere of apres ski. Apres traffic jams, apres snow and frost, apres run around Moscow before the holidays.

  • View of the open kitchen at the Sage Restaurant

  • What to order? A rare case where everything is possible. The prices are not high at all and the serving of the dishes is so beautiful that everyone will love it. If you want the classic Blinov, then here is the menu for you: tartar (550 rubles) – ground beef in silk hummus, parmesan mousse (a lot) and green parsley oil (a little) on top. Fresh sea bass with spicy sauce and fresh cucumber (790 rubles). The fish is excellent, the pieces are moderately thick, not petals. And the Asian sauce is as follows: mixed with sake, mitsukan vinegar, soy, kimchi, lemon, grape seed oil. Well, cabbage (750 rubles), cooked whole with truffle. Winter and useful.

  • The same cabbage with truffle

  • At almost every table they take a puff pastry with ox (750 rubles), and do it right. Nothing tastes better than a generous meat pie. But they bring an unexpected bowl of white sauce to the pie, and it’s super delicious again. The sauce is made from dense matzoni, which is first separated from the whey and then mixed part of the whey for the desired texture, salted, a little fresh coriander is added and then dried coriander with zira and lemon juice is added. And if the pie is pure Blinov, then the healthy sauce for it is clearly Perelman, who is passionate about all kinds of healthy foods, Indian spices and food combinations.

  • A mandatory dish from the lungs is a comb with yuzu dressing (950 rubles). Fresh scallop coarsely chopped and mixed with pomelo and lotus. Exchanging acidity and sweetness, these ingredients are seasoned with a sauce of yuzu juice, lemon, olive oil and caramel before serving. I describe the composition in detail and I advise you to try the local Asian dressings to understand how different they are from the ubiquitous bottled ones.

  • Carpaccio

  • A coffee and pastry station was built in the hall as a separate island, where the confectioner works. And you can go up to see, talk before choosing a dessert. I chose the lemon tart, which is wonderful. The confectioner is called Lena Nabiullina, she is talented and famous, we must gradually try all her sweets.

  • The dissatisfaction was caused by two things: in a green salad, the spinach leaves and the arugula did not cut the legs-tails. These long ponytails have nothing to do with a classy place – they taste worse than the leaves, they are fibrous and continue to splash with sauce when pierced with a fork. stains from them. How can you make a kitchen for a hundred million and not put on it a man who tears these ponytails for half an hour a day – I do not understand. Another lamb for one of the main hot dishes – “Shovel with shallots and mashed sage” for 1100 rubles – seemed very lively, with the smell of lamb. In Moscow, they do not like it now, there will be complaints.

  • In general, Sage deserves all the praise. It looks like a restaurant of the future, a restaurant-lounge, where all your favorite tasty things are packaged in a new concept. According to rumors, the respected Blinov and Perelman are happy with each other and are already preparing the next project – they are reviving The Most in Kuznetsky Most. It’s good to.

  • The opinion of the author may not coincide with the opinion of the authors

  • Read also:

  • “Something salty-creamy, with the addition of crunches”: Elena Remchukova for Virgilio Martinez’s Olluco restaurant in Moscow

  • Inside Out Sushi and Suluguni in Singapore: Elena Remchukova for Farang Restaurant

  • Khraime, muhammara and cracked tiles: Elena Remchukova for the new Mina restaurant

  • Leave a Comment