345, La Virgen Taqueria, Hamster and two more – The City, 16/05/2022

A fish tavern from the Lucky Group, a Mexican and ultra-modern taquier and a café in Dagestan with real khinkals (not to be confused with khinkals) – restaurant reviewer Alexander Ilyin talks about the week’s highlights.

“345”

B. Nikitskaya, 22/2

Discoveries of the week: 345, La Virgen Taqueria, Hamster and two more

Restaurant 345 is another, the twelfth project of the Lucky Group, which grows like bamboo. The genre is stated simply and exhaustively: a restaurant on the ocean, that is, one must prepare for a certain level of price. Fish and other marine animals are collected specifically for 345 in the Indian and Arctic Oceans and imported Monday and Thursday. Sergey Andreichenko took over as chef – remember, he once drove Montifiori and Sartoria Lamberti, then suddenly left for the noisy but dark Papa Bar Village and then left altogether to work abroad. Well, he’s back.

It is suggested to pay attention, of course, mainly to the glacier which is full of fish. Get a red snapper (870 rubles per 100 g), marlin (830 rubles per 100 g) or John Dory, also known as St. Pierre’s fish (1400 rubles per 100 g) – and the chefs cook them as you say. However, this menu does not end there. You can get crudo “345” for 3200 rubles and red mullet with tartar sauce for 610 rubles, even onion soup with gougères (like cream cheese buns) for an additional 1100 rubles.

The name “345” has a numerical character: the numbers presented, when added together, give 12. There it is.


La Virgen Taqueria

Lubyansky proezd, 5, building 1

Discoveries of the week: 345, La Virgen Taqueria, Hamster and two more
Discoveries of the week: 345, La Virgen Taqueria, Hamster and two more

The trendy Mexican restaurant La Virgen Taqueria has opened in the courtyards of Lubyansky Pass. It’s not easy to find, but you do not have to worry about getting involved – the work was done by the same people with the terribly independent bar Underdog, they know how to gather people. The Taqueria is located in the basement, occupies two rooms (the second was discovered during the renovation process, it happens). The walls are painted with folk devils, an altar with a statue of Our Lady of Guadeloupe is placed in a niche, a drinking water fountain comes out of the wall – in general, it is beautiful.

The food is tacos, ceviche, nachos and churros. Prices are as follows: the most expensive taco, with shrimp, sauce serrano aioli and guacamole, costs 490 rubles (2 pieces per serving), ceviche with shrimp and avocado – 550 rubles (served by the glass, convenient). Michelada is also available – 420 rubles regular and 450 rubles green. The chef, named Marco Ferreira, was born and raised in California, but his voice of blood was louder. The guests love it.


“Jan Primus” in Belorusskaya

Gruzinsky Val, 11, building 3

Discoveries of the week: 345, La Virgen Taqueria, Hamster and two more
Discoveries of the week: 345, La Virgen Taqueria, Hamster and two more

The chain flagship Jan Primus was inaugurated at the Belka restaurant complex in Gruzinsky Val, literally a stone’s throw from the Belorusskaya-Koltsevaya metro station. There are two beer cards here. The first, traditional, includes more than 100 seats (30 of them in cranes). The second, developed specifically for the new project, is called “Svareno v Rossii” and includes 48 bottled and 15 barrel varieties. They promise to be updated every month and advise you to try seasonal varieties quickly, such as New England-style Fractal IPA (415 rubles per 400 ml), Russian imperial solidity with Ender VI candy (450 rubles per 400 ml), Saur from Krasnaya Pakhra “Three in One” with raspberry, agave and strawberry puree (450 rubles per 400 ml).

The kitchen menu contains the best examples of world beer gastronomy. As long as you skip it even with a cursory glance, it becomes clear: you have to go here with a good warm company, because you can not get over such a beauty alone (and you want to order almost everything). And by the way, the dishes for the company look the most attractive. For example, various sausages (2900 rubles) – includes white Munich sausages, small chicken sausages, Prague sausages with paprika, Bavarian pork sausages and exotic venison sausages. Ή Beer Convoy (3150 rubles): pork ribs, fried pork fillet, German beer bread, cheese balls, spicy chicken strips, chicken quesadillas, roasted corn and french fries. sour cream, tomato sauce and cheese sauce, about 2 kg of food in total.

Although there are options for a single visitor, and in fact very aesthetic. For example, duck fillet with boiled apples and figs (790 rubles) or mussels with cheese and teriyaki sauce (685 rubles). But the company is even better.


“Flour” at the Eat Market

Smolenskaya Square, 5, TDK “Smolensky passage 2”, -1 floor

Discoveries of the week: 345, La Virgen Taqueria, Hamster and two more
Discoveries of the week: 345, La Virgen Taqueria, Hamster and two more

The dining room on the 1st floor of Smolensky Passage 2 continues to grow and become more beautiful. Specifically, at the beginning of May, a café of Dagestani cuisine “Muka” started operating here. One of the few places in the city where you can order khinkal and different – Avar (520 rubles), Lezgi (490 rubles), Dargin (520 rubles) and shah khinkal (580 rubles).

It is important to understand here that khinkali has nothing to do with khinkali. It is based on bone broth, boiled beef, lamb or poultry and as a mandatory carbohydrate ingredient – dough, prepared in its own way in each region of Dagestan. Thus, the Avars cook unleavened dough without yeast in kefir, then cut it into rectangles and boil it in broth. Lezgins prepare khinkal in the way of Italian pasta: the dough is cut into cubes with a thin roll. For Dargin khinkal, they take puff pastry, spread it with oil, sprinkle them with Caucasian walnut grass and then make round buns and steam them.

In addition, Muka prepares 7 types of thin Lezgi afar cakes, including those with mountain coriander and chickpea grass, specially brought from Dagestan, as well as rich cudu-chudu and dumpling Dagestan kurze. And they also sell juices from the village of Avaron Mogokh, which has an old factory that has been operating since the middle of the last century with local fruits – apricot, plum, apple and peach.


Hamster

Minsk, 2B, bldg. 4

Discoveries of the week: 345, La Virgen Taqueria, Hamster and two more
Discoveries of the week: 345, La Virgen Taqueria, Hamster and two more

The Hamster restaurant, which used to work near the Dynamo metro station, has finally moved to a new location – the Snegiri Eco residential complex. What can I say, for the inhabitants of “Snegiri” it is an incredible success. Otherwise, we inform you that they really know how to cook and closely monitor the quality of both products and services. Here’s what you should definitely order: cabbage rolls with beef and cabbage mores (1200 rubles) – the rarest case when the cabbage is properly prepared. Baked eggplant with miso and cheese (750 rubles), made in an understandable way, but that does not make it worse. tartar with chantal sauce (950 rubles), chantal is parmesan foam with a whimsical spice. baked tortillas, especially with duck and plum sauce (550 rubles) and beef and tsimitsouri (690 rubles).

The rest is not worse, but simpler. The typical steak (1750 rubles) turned out to be very cool – a strong chopped cutlet, which would look decent on Gorynych. Yes, design – it is unlikely that anyone will go that far for the sake of design, but still everything looks expensive and at the same time pleasant: wood, marble, felt, eco leather. And a very good name: The hamster is a hamster that chews constantly and therefore has a good mood.

Alexander Ilyin

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