Burgundy snails, coconut bougainvillea and food collection in size. Restaurant critic Vladimir Gridin visited Alexander Orlov’s new restaurant “South 22” – as if on holiday.
It happens that you go down the stairs of an airplane and, as soon as your body is wrapped in a burning, wet tissue of hot air, you understand: you are in the south. Or here is another: you leave a dark room or a corridor without windows on the street with your eyes and skin almost closed from the light, you feel the summer and the sun. You experience the exact same unconscious, instinctive feeling from Alexander Orlov’s new restaurant “South 22”.
Despite its common, almost abstract name, this south has a very specific geographical reference – southern France. They do not speak loudly, preferring to talk about “the geography of the six countries of the south coast of Europe and Africa”, but France in Oryol “South” is definitely the largest.
Veranda of the restaurant “South 22”
You catch the relaxed atmosphere of the southern French-speaking cities right away, even before the doorstep. White and blue wicker chairs placed on the street in small tables, turned to the sidewalk – to show themselves and see others – are sent by teleportation to the C Αte d’Azur. The pieds-noirs, French natives of the African colonies, once returned there and brought with them a love of African art and culture.
Their motifs are scattered throughout the restaurant: from the marked wall ornaments to the black and white armchairs and Yayoi Kusama-style decorations, from the gold-beige fringe around the safari-style bar, to the mirror frame with in the form of a primitive sculpture, from waitresses with espadrilles to strikingly similar hosts with afro curls. If you go downstairs, you can find a nice bar with colorful carved columns and a black bar in ebony. In it, Yves Saint Laurent could easily spend the night with his clak, if he now lives in Moscow. All together – dazzling white, consuming black, shiny gold, exotic plastic – create a special almost holiday atmosphere: we must admit that we are all very tired without the sun and the sea.
The interior of the restaurant “South 22”
Somewhat theatrical, this atmosphere is ingeniously set up and hits right on target. You want to fall in love with the Yug 22 right away. Without sea urchins? A storm at sea? God bless him, bring the scallop with black caviar and mango-jalapeno sauce, we will be happy with its silky flesh, the optional selection of this caviar and an unexpected drop of cream that holds the structure. Bring the sea bass sevice, we look forward to discovering that it can be made the lightest millefeuille: a slice of seabass, a pure green apple, an avocado – and so on sometimes. Leave the octopus carpaccio on the table, and jamon and escalivada – the Catalan version of the meze of roasted eggplant and pepper, tapana of olives and pickled onions, let them fry until deep fried, but not a little greasy zucchini circles with t very pleasing to the eye. And snails, yes, snails! We will not choose, let there be Burgundy with green butter and garlic, and Provencal with a la tomato pesto sauce.
Shrimp, achi, black caviar, 1500 rub.
The real French, of course, would not allow themselves such an exaggeration, but bouillabaisse with coconut milk was not invented for them (this is very beefy, of course) and lamb kebab under roasted eggplant – they did not think of making a blow out this combination of increased fluffy still people from the Maghreb. Like the other menu, these quirks are the work of Leonid Ivanov, who moved from St. Petersburg, the chef with great care and imagination.
Leader Leonid Andreev
Among other things, for the “South” he thought of a whole collection of plus size food. These are really huge dishes, which are not only feasible, but it is urgently necessary to share them with someone, preferably for three or four. For some reason, Yug wants to entice more friends with this sly move, although I would prefer to see in it extremely happy gourmets, eating happy portions of Rabelais Greek salad (700 g!) And tagine with lamb shoulder, almonds and persimmons , and a dessert that requires the perfect semifreddo or a giant (for four!) candy. However, such places should not be owned by a large number of tourists.
Lamb shoulder, couscous, almonds, lotus, charissa, 3500 rub.
The opinion of the author may not coincide with the opinion of the authors
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