I travel in the low winter-spring season and Kamchatka does a trick for me, not bad for a Murmansk woman, but rather expected and acceptable – the weather changes almost every few hours.
Yes, compatriots, blizzard and snow up to the ankle on Victory Day on May 9 – this is not only in Kola, but also in Kamchatka!
But it is warmer, much warmer than ours: and the wind is not icy, but slightly cool. and the sun really warms up when it appears, and not just shines.
According to locals, the climate in the Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky region is mild, in winter it is mostly -10 °, it can drop to -20 ° for a few days. Much snow. Summer is not hot, comfortable + 20 °. Everyone I have talked to about the weather notes that both summer and winter have become warmer in the last 3 years.
But that summer and winter, and in the spring of 2022, specifically in early May, came out quite a half of winter, with cloudy skies, sometimes cut by the sun’s rays, and a temperature of about + 7 °. My favorite weather.
On May 9, a trip to Cape Mayachny was planned, where, as you can guess, the lighthouse is located, and on the way to it, a view of the famous natural attraction called Three Brothers, such large stones in the ocean, opens.
In the morning he thanked me with a dense fog, which guarantees the complete absence of visibility beyond a few meters.
There was no idea to cancel the trip, because on this trip I planned to see items that had not been declared in the standard tourist program.
It is the possibility of relatively independent determination of the excursion program, as well as the deviation from the planned route, that attracts me to individual excursions. And, of course, walking at an acceptable pace, which is very important to me.
Good. Stones in the ocean in Kamchatka? From the lookout? No. Only Cape Korabl, only the amethyst shore. The beauty and spaciousness of Kola in terms of such items can not be interrupted by anything for me, of which I am 100 percent sure.
It was interesting to compare the lighthouse with the lighthouse in the village of Kashkarantsy in the Tersky area.
The main purpose of the trip to Cape Mayachny was the ruins of the village in a place called Bolshaya Lagernaya.
I love the views of human hand creations collapsing in the landscape of harsh nature. At the same time, you understand the perseverance and will of the people who built these places and lived in difficult conditions and at the same time you realize that nature will still return to its superiority.
The fog became the best companion for the journey of all that Kamchatka nature could offer. It was a street where you remember Silent Hill, the horror of Stephen King, Lovecraft.
In the fog, against the backdrop of snowy terrain, one can appreciate the picturesque nature of the stone birches, which, as I see it, are the main trees that grow near Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky.
Under the influence of the winds, their trunks and branches acquire strange curves, making the bare forest of May look like a network of pottery and capillaries.
The snowy thawing road forced the driver to pick up the shovel several times, but we got to all the places we wanted.
The first was an abandoned shelter hidden on a hill. It looks like a bombshell, very large in size, I was able to bypass many utility rooms, I counted at least 10 rooms for people to live in. The shelter is abandoned, but they try to clean it, as evidenced by bags full of garbage, arranged near the ventilation shaft.
The shelter probably belonged to the border guards or was an object for the inhabitants of the village of Bolshaya Okeanskaya, of which almost nothing was left. Given that Kamchatka was a closed area until the 1990s, there is very little information about old abandoned sites in general and the destruction of coastal settlements in particular. The main versions of the disaster are limited to the consequences of the tsunami that covered the coast of the peninsula on November 5, 1952.
However, I found information that the rather large village Bolshaya Okeanskaya, which appeared in the late 50s of last century, in which there was a school, kindergarten, shop, two-story houses and a doctor’s station. was installed in 1984, and literally within a year the buildings were demolished for building materials. That is, nature did not even have to try, the people themselves disbanded and were rejected in a business way.
The village produced wooden barrels, nets and trawls for the needs of Kamchatrybprom. At different times, from five hundred to one and a half thousand people lived in the village. And they closed it after the transfer of production to Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, and not because of the tsunami.
Which version of the destruction of the village to choose, each tourist will decide for himself. The main thing is not to forget that the stories of these places are very interesting, partly secret and even mystical.
Cape Mayachny met us with the cries of seagulls sitting on the rocky slopes of the cape and the sound of the ocean, which completely merged with the fog, declaring itself only with white spots of coastal foam.
A fantastic atmosphere in which I wanted to stay as long as possible to refill with the power and purity of the Kamchatka ocean fountain, but the road called for further.
I can note that the cape itself is an attractive place. The idea came to me to see it in the sunlight, when the grass is green.
Lighthouse. His photo can be viewed on the Internet. Our Kashkaran is definitely more picturesque, and let the people of Kamchatka not be offended, they have many other exclusives.
The observation deck, which in clear weather offers views of the Three Brothers, appeared in front of me completely covered in fog. I do not think many tourists have seen it in such a semi-Gothic form.
The atmosphere though! In the fog one can imagine all sorts of three stones called brothers. As if the ocean is the scene, the rocks are the actors and the fog is the curtain.
The last chord of the foggy trip arrangement was a long walk along the ocean shore at low tide, when the bright colors of the underwater rocks opened up against the black volcanic sand and the freshness of the salty air was dizzying. And no one around.
So, in weather conditions that are defined as impassable for many, but not for the people of Murmansk, you can dive into fantasies and go back to childhood, when you see a sea monster in any obstacle and the blood boils with admiration for its wonders. nature that we can see in Russia so that even under the gusts of salty ocean wind it is very warm and cozy.
But post-apocalyptic views were still waiting for me, in a few days.
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