The Japanese word saikō (emphasis in O, translates as “amazing, extraordinary”) is ambitious, but without vanity, on the sign of Olga Shalnova and Vyacheslav Kazakov’s pan-Asian restaurant. Tandem believes that the Panasia version can be referenced.
Once upon a time, Olga Shalnova and Vyacheslav Kazakov (this is the owner, this is the chef) met at the Oblaka restaurant-club, which for the first time set the bar for places where they had more fun than they ate. , just the level of food, and then went down to mice, hookahs and companions.
Neither Shalnova nor Kazakov were in Oblaki at the time, they dispersed quietly according to their interests: Olga lived in many countries, Vyacheslav opened his own restaurants, first in Rybinsk and then in the capital. In combination with the author’s Hands on Plyushchikha, where he crosses the principles of haute cuisine and everyday food, Hands Asian started with a Pan-Asian accent that is fashionable in Muscovites. He started it so successfully that Shalnova, who returned to Moscow, suggested that he open a shared restaurant.
Interior of Saiko restaurant
The location chosen for this was bold by 2019 standards, but questionable today – the business center in White Square. The buzzing employees of the hives have been streamlined, shipped, so that the gilded White Orchards have faded a bit, but still retain their magnetic aura. For nothing, or something like that, the White Rabbit family overlooks the site of the Osteria della Piazza Bianca, which died in the pandemic, at the nearby White Square business center.
Externally, Saiko does not betray its Asian essence. There are no bright colors, exotic decor, folklore patterns here. It is a minimalist, restrained space. Its elongated shape is hidden by corrugated sofas: you seem to be sitting next to someone, but alone with yourself. Such a restaurant can easily be imagined anywhere in the world and with any cuisine. This deliberate facelessness perfectly emphasizes the local cuisine.
Nikkei style rolls with dorado
Based on Asian recipes full of bright flavors, spices and seasonings, Saiko’s food pays homage to the Pan-Asian trio: rolls, dim sum, Peking duck. The former are assembled in the way known in Moscow – unexpected combinations of flavors and sauces, large size. Until recently, this was called nikkei style and no Japanese would agree to eat a tempura shrimp roll with mango sauce or sea bream with unagi-yuzu sauce, but classic flavors are not a decree for us, we taste it and we like it. The second is perfect. The dough is thin, elastic and pliable, the fillings (there are shrimp, beef, salmon and crab) are enough and the henza (with chicken and shrimp) is fried properly with a lacy batter. The third is absolutely amazing. Rich color, crisp skin, juicy meat and as a bonus two delicious legs, which are usually not served with breasts.
Accompanied by fireworks with inventive appetizers, such as crushed ginger and zucchini zucchini, chicken liver pate with smoked eel tartare in Japanese brioche, beef tartare in potato charlotte, avocado in tragacanth with avocado in tragacanth. In the noodles and rice section, we found excellent noodles with squid and a mild, tolerant black pepper sauce. You can eat this every day and never get bored. The vegetables are fried in a robot – sweet potato gratin with ginger, cauliflower curry with coconut lemongrass, broccoli with nut mousse, lure vegetarians.
The mood of the bar in the restaurant is monitored by one of the most sought after mixologists in the capital, Vasily Zheglov. In cocktails named after numbers, he skillfully encrypts local flavors. Thus, No. 1 is a combination of rum, strawberry soju, white wine, pineapple and sorrel, No. 10 is smoked pear rum, sherry brandy, red vermouth, umami bitters and shiitake mushrooms, and No. 12 is a friendship story between vodka on anchan and lavender flowers, berry vermouth, almond and lychee. By the way, there are no cocktails with numbers 4 and 14 on the map, because in Asia these numbers are considered unlucky.
The opinion of the author may not coincide with the opinion of the authors
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