“Radio” and Italian Lilac – Weekend – Kommersant

“Radio”

Delicate chia pudding

The new work by Alexey Olkhovy, the founder of White Studios, Loft Design and the Blanc restaurant in Khokhlovka, is called Radio and is located next to the eponymous street in the closed courtyard of the Supermetal office space in the Bardin Research Institute of Iron and Metallurgy. It is difficult to imagine an unknown place for a restaurant in Moscow, which focuses on luxurious locations between the Garden and Boulevard rings. But Aleksey Olkhovoi, like few, feels urban spaces. Blanc’s opening in a welcoming Kitay-gorod courtyard marked the beginning of an entire restaurant movement, making the quiet “second-line” location the main trend among advanced new restaurants. This fashion has been around for three years and is clearly not in decline. Having made a leap even further from the center and turned a former electrical panel into an all-atmospheric industrial space into a restaurant with a huge courtyard, the creator of the new Radio pulled the wave again and created another current trend. Moscow’s industrial sites are becoming Moscow’s strongholds. They are full of life, they are imbued with essential symbols and metaphors, in addition, they allow you to conduct commercial activities with minimal restrictions, as they are located outside the area of ​​residential buildings. Here, parties for a thousand or more people with live music and dancing in a huge enclosed courtyard overlooking the dusty windows of a Soviet research institute become an effective marketing tool. Here you can set up a real fireplace. There is enough space to grow plants and grow beds for your own small vegetable garden. And what is surprising is that even during the day there are a few fewer people at the tables than Patricky and Bolshaya Nikitskaya. Externally, the “Radio” is very reminiscent of Blanc, it also looks like a warm greenhouse with countless living plants and often windows, even under a glass roof. Elegant furniture, fireplace, lots of glass and light – the architectural appearance of the “Radio” is very different from the interior of the “central” restaurant – first of all, laconicism and moderation. This space is comfortable and not pretentious, but at the same time with deep meaning and not at all cheap. Building ideas around living plants, Aleksey Olkhovoi organically fills his works with clear and convincing meanings. With food it is even easier, it serves as a discreet addition to the environment, atmosphere and communication. Alexander Karadzhiev, the older brother of Blanc chef Dmitry Karadzhiev, is in charge of the kitchen. The menu is full of hits of the city in comfort food style, without pretexts and pretense. Hummus (590 rubles), like guacamole (590 rubles), is served with sweet potato and beetroot vegetable chips. In the same appetizer section there are tomatoes cooked and marinated in Mexican sugar musk, with homemade Adyghe cheese and shiso (790 rubles), salmon crust with ponzu and apple (950 rubles), scallop tart with strawberries and avocado (9 rubles) poached egg (610 rub). A fairly large portion of soups shows that the inhabitants of Supermetal regularly visit the Radio during the day: chicken broth (410 rubles) and vegetable soup with tofu (490 rubles) clearly claim to be the top places for lunch. For hot dishes, beef cheeks with carrots and cauliflower puree (870 rubles), steamed sea bass with broccoli and spinach puree (1190 rubles), potato gnocchi with scallops and porcini mushrooms (1050 rubles) are offered. The dessert is an elegant chia banana pudding with strawberries (490 rubles). The portions are small, the flavors are mediocre, the prices are exactly the same as the main locations. By the way, Radio cocktails performed by Andrey Shumikhin’s team cost 690 rubles each, and this is also by no means a dumped price. That is, the pricing policy of a successful project located in an obscure but well-chosen place, in fact, does not differ from the “tested” sites, and this significantly affects the business model, of course, in favor of the installation. As for the cocktails themselves, the emphasis is on the modern Low ABV style with low alcohol content – aromas of cordial, rosé, prosecco, red vermouth, aperol, exotic fruits, strawberry and jasmine aromas in the simplest and most convenient combinations.

“Radio” (3/5)

2nd Baumanskaya street, 9/23, Supermetal, +7 (991) 647-11-70

Italian lilac

Excellent caponata with Parma

This year, the seasonal pop-up project on Lila’s roof is called Italy and is dedicated to Italian homemade cuisine. Like last year, when the bet was made in the Greek style, chef Nikita Gavrilov is in charge of the food and Régis Trigel, chef of the Lila brand, is the curator. But this season, his involvement is much more pronounced – due to the fact that author Lila’s restaurant, which was clearly created at Michelin, is now restarting, most of his team, as well as most of the most suppliers selected products, turned out to be sought after on the roof of Lila Italy, so that the level of cuisine and service here literally skyrocketed compared to last summer. As a result, under the watchful eye of the French brand chef, Lila Italy turned out to be a very tasty little Italian menu with simple and clear positions, elegantly executed in French. Eggplant capona with pink ribbons of Parma ham and poached egg (690 rubles), artichokes with fresh figs and parmesan (1350 rubles), beetroot with fine tomatoes (1350 rubles) and beef tartare with hummus large table (1290 rubles) with a bottle of wine and, of course, for sharing. It is worth noting that this section also includes absolutely homemade sauces with mortadella and mozzarella (990 rubles) and hot pastries with tomato sauce and herbs (790 rubles). A fairly large portion of pizza also fits perfectly into the idea of ​​a street restaurant, here you should pay attention to the pizza with porchetta and friarelli (1750 rubles) – this is an absolutely exclusive and of course choices with mortadella and stracciatella (1490 rubles) and with artichokes and Gorgonzola (1550 rubles) – this rare case in Moscow when the high price is justified by the quality. In a small but spacious part of the main dishes there is an excellent dorado with crispy crust and tomatoes (1550 rubles) and sausages with pumpkin and sage (770 rubles), very worthy and convincing.


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