5 restaurants to go in May – The City, 27/04/2022

Restaurants are like children. They do not immediately get to their feet, they do not immediately learn to speak. Sometimes, over time, it becomes clear that the restaurant is developing in a completely different direction, and that can also be good. Here are five plants whose evolution is now a passion to watch.

Traditional

Tsvetnoy Avenue, 2

5 restaurants worth visiting in May

The latest work by Dmitry Romanov, Anton Pinsky and Vladimir Chistyakov. Although not, since the inauguration, Pinsky has been involved in the over-opportunistic Patrick – which makes Folk no less glamorous. It has now become quite clear that Chistyakov is gradually turning from a cook to a trainee restaurant (for better or worse, this is a separate discussion, so far it is probably good). The practical leadership of popular cuisine is exercised by Mark Shah Akbari, who was previously head of Sybarite, and it must be said that the stated style of the new pan-Caucasian food is very close to it. The work on the menu does not stop for a single day and its intermediate results are offered daily to the attention of the respectable public in the Special section. Be sure to order the scallop with coconut pomegranate and pomegranate (980 rubles) and honey cake with bergamot cream (550 rubles). In addition, the main menu has also changed significantly compared to February. In short, you have to try.


Lumicino

ag. Bolshaya Nikitskaya, 58

5 restaurants worth visiting in May
5 restaurants worth visiting in May

I will say right away: everything is fine with the concept, no change – Lamberti remembers everything that happened to him in life. And the menu is also about the same as when you open it. But technologically improving dishes to perfection – yes, that’s Lamberti’s favorite thing. Thus, the pizza, which at first caused some skepticism, is now worth a special visit and tasting. And this is not a childish choice at all, but a completely clear and interesting gastronomic statement. Order pizza with avocado and shrimp cream (1,650 rubles), tuna and smoked tonnato sauce (1,490 rubles) or ham, baked potatoes and truffle sauce (1,530 rubles) – you have almost never tried anything like this, and it’s not just about with the fillings, but also for the quality of the test. The only inconvenience is the exorbitant prices, but Lumicino is a restaurant, in principle, not cheap. But it is completely incompatible in terms of quality.


Farang

ag. Malaya Nikitskaya, 24, building 1

5 restaurants worth visiting in May
5 restaurants worth visiting in May

But here there was literally a change in form, there was only a certain general direction to the East. The head of the kitchen is now the experienced Aziz Saffar, who has been working in Moscow facilities of the highest price category for many years (Peshi, Bouillabaisse and others). The menu was cut in half and became noticeably more French. It is clear that in this situation it is difficult to advise anything other than “take everything!”. And really, you can not go wrong. A special delight: beef tartare (1,200 rubles) is served with french fries, as it should be in the whole civilized world.

In general, they praise (and deserve) the octopus carpaccio (1,500 rubles), the chestnut soup with pumpkin and foie gras (750 rubles), the absolutely amazing chicken with artichokes and fennel (2,100 rubles), cooked entirely in castor oil and castor oil with North African spices (3,400 rubles). By myself, I would also note a pie with green asparagus (550 rubles) and mashed potatoes (750 rubles), since, as you know, the devil is in the smallest detail. By the way, here are some even bigger details: the fish is now defined in the menu as “fish of the day” (1,600 rubles per 100 grams), that is, what they bought was cooked immediately. The ceiling is no longer red, but gray.


Bagbebi

ag. Prechistenka, 19/11, building 2

5 restaurants worth visiting in May
5 restaurants worth visiting in May

In Baghebi, first, they completed the interior, and now it has become very beautiful here. You may not even eat anything special, but just look around – the truth is amazing. And secondly, the promising new generation of Georgian cuisine proved to be not at all terrible, but, on the contrary, extremely refined and thoughtful. You have to go here for the whole day very hungry and get half the menu. But if it happens to you suddenly, as is usually the case in Moscow, to run for a minute, then you can get a rabbit rabbit with ucho-suneli icing (840 rubles) or trout on a grape leaf (970 rubles) and in addition – a corn tortilla with quince and guacamole shrimp (540 rubles) and / or salad with crispy eggplant and plum sauce (510 rubles). Well, if you really want something new and unexpected, order umami satsivi mushrooms (510 rubles), fish soup with snails, dogwood and smoked millet (590 rubles) and jackal with beef cheeks (940 rubles). If you do not know, tsakontrili is when the meat is simmered for a long time at low temperature with butter – just wow. Or, to be more precise, wow!


“House 16”

Pokrovsky Blvd., 16–18, pp. 4–4a

5 restaurants worth visiting in May
5 restaurants worth visiting in May

The foundation that opened in the summer of 2019, with the modestly crafted name “Dom 16” is a work of the well-known throughout Moscow entertainer Mitya Borisov (“OGI”, “PirOGI”, “Jean-Jacques”), either club, or restaurant or playground. And, as usual with Borisov, the food there was not fundamental – there is something to eat, and that’s okay. However, now the situation has changed: the kitchen of “House 16” was headed by Andrey Chetvertnov, unexpectedly even for himself. He, if you do not know, opened Erwin, then worked for a long time at Glenuill, then at the Trattoria Scampi – he knows how to cook seriously. And he turned “House 16” into such an osteria-trattoria without five minutes, and anything but commonplace.

Here are some excerpts from a fairly large menu (well, that’s clear here – the room is huge, seats can not be counted): piquillo peppers with tonnato sauce (550 rubles), parma, ricotta and roasted nectarine (680 rubles), beetroot with shrimp (750 rubles), burrata with anchovies (760 rubles), Tuscan porcini mushroom soup (450 rubles), ravioli with orange ricotta and grilled ribs (980 rubles), risotto with grilled beetroot and goat cheese (6 rubles), parmesan cream and truffle (450 rubles), fried artichokes with pecorino (720 rubles). After all, this is exactly what is written, without assumptions and nods to the price. Natural magic. So, if you are in the area of ​​Pokrovsky Avenue, be sure to stop. By the way, the entrance is from the Podkolokolny lane, keep in mind.

Alexander Ilyin

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