Why are gold, niacinamide, squalane and probiotics important for youthful skin?

At what point should you start fighting with age? The question is very personal. For some, this is relevant at 25, one can afford to wait until 40 – it all depends on the genetic potential, and the ups and downs of our lives and the habit of taking care of ourselves regularly. Among the signs that indicate that it is time to start anti-aging prevention are the loss of elasticity and the appearance of wrinkles on the skin. If you do not start using anti-aging cosmetics right now, the skin will become dull, there will be a feeling of dryness and tightness. And the logical continuation will be the appearance of wrinkles and relaxation.

So what about those whose faces, according to Annie Girardot, have long been reminiscent of a map of Paris? It’s the same thing – look for effective compounds and formulas and incorporate them into your daily beauty routine. Among the most effective ingredients in anti-aging products, modern cosmetologists often cite retinol, vitamin C and hyaluronic acid. But niacinamide, gold, squalane and probiotics are equally effective and definitely worth discussing in more detail.


This is nothing but water-soluble vitamin B3, which is vital for our body. Niacinamide is involved in almost all oxidative reactions, normalizes the metabolism of proteins and fats. It is the invisible guardian angel of our heart: it dilates blood vessels, lowers blood pressure, fights “bad” cholesterol and raises hemoglobin levels. It is also responsible for cellular skin renewal. Enhances its barrier functions, retaining moisture inside.

Relieves itching, irritation and dryness. Fights inflammation and flaking. Reduces pores, controls sebum production … If you have these problems, you just need niacinamide cosmetics. It is also important in the presence of age spots: niacinamide has a light action. And with rosacea, rosacea and rashes: the anti-inflammatory properties of the vitamin allow it to affect the reactivity of the skin. Well, if you add that niacinamide does not conflict with other ingredients and works well even in combination with volatile vitamin C, you will just have a portrait of a superhero.

Where to look for it?

Niacinamide is one of the main ingredients in moisturizers and serums, products for problem skin and, of course, anti-aging products.


In Acqua di Parma multifunctional face cream, niacinamide, in combination with vitamin E and squalane, fights free radicals (and, as a result, wrinkles) and fills the skin with energy.

The Vichy range includes the soothing Masque Minéral Désaltérant, a mineral mask that soothes irritation and reduces redness in record time, while combating the signs of skin aging.

Uriage launches Depiderm line with niacinamide and high SPF to brighten and smooth the skin and fight hyperpigmentation.

High concentration of niacinamide and in line for problem skin Effaclar from La Roche-Posay


Probiotics are living microorganisms or substances of microbial origin that are beneficial to our microflora. Everyone knows about the gut microbiome, but so does the skin. If the microorganisms on its surface live in peace and harmony, if the diversity of their species is maintained, the skin has good immunity, is healthy, hydrated, without signs of irritation and inflammation. But if the pathogenic microflora for some reason begins to prevail, problems appear – dryness, reactivity, rashes.

And here it is time to plant the right bacteria in the skin, which will mimic the action of their own microflora, displacing pathogens. They will enhance the skin’s barrier function, relieve the inflammatory process and so on. Surprisingly, we age with our microbiome, so one of the interesting innovative directions is the creation of anti-aging cosmetics that would restore the microbial balance that characterizes the young skin.

Ekaterina Turubara, Vichy: “Of course, probiotics for the skin and intestines are different. Therefore, these are different categories of microorganisms Spreading yogurt on your face is just as pointless as eating cream.. However, it is known that our skin loves bacteria of the genus Bifidus. These and other probiotics mechanically improve the protective properties of the skin, as the skin cells, the keratinocytes, begin to adhere more closely to each other. As a result, the skin becomes less vulnerable and sensitive, better retains moisture and nutrients.

Where to look for them?

Let’s make a reservation right away: in their pure form, probiotics are not used in cosmetics, because they need a special nutrient for life, which does not look like face cream at all. Cosmetics with live bacteria are stored no more than kefir, therefore, for the production of creams and serums, lysis products are used – fragments of microorganisms. As well as enzymes and other substances necessary for the skin produced by bacteria.

Probiotics are an ideal ingredient for the treatment of problematic, dry, sensitive and aged skin.


Armani Beauty has announced a new Crema Nera Volume Reshaping Eye Serum, which effectively fights the signs of aging.

The American company We are wild released sticks with fermented ingredients and probiotics for washing, rubbing. They turn into either oil, cream or foam.

Probiotics are a key ingredient in HydroPeptide Probiotic Essence to normalize skin microflora.

In addition to pro- and prebiotics, the Soothing Day Cream with Greek Korres Yogurt includes three types of hyaluronic acid.


It happens that “we have gold” they say not only about the price of the cream, but also about its composition. Some time ago, manufacturers started adding gold to premium funds. Why is it so attractive? First, this metal is inert, ie it does not react with water and air. Second, it has high biocompatibility. This allowed the use of gold in prosthetics, surgery and for the treatment of certain autoimmune diseases.

Back then, remember, gold reinforcement was popular when yarns with the addition of this noble metal were implanted in the deeper layers of the skin. The procedure was designed to accelerate cell renewal. The same gold deals with the composition of cosmetics. The metal improves metabolic processes in tissues, promotes collagen production and acts as an antioxidant. And as a result, it has a strong anti-aging effect.

Where to look for it?

Deionized water with gold suspension is used for the production of cosmetics. It combines with other active ingredients – for example, peptides or collagen, and in this form, gold enters the surface layers of the skin.


Look for gold in La Prairie’s luxury Pure Gold Radiance Concentrate.

Ή in the regenerating face and neck cream Eisenberg Excellence Énergie Or Soin Jour.

Guerlain L’Or Makeup Foundation instantly brightens skin with grains of the purest 24 carat gold.

In Guerlain Parure Gold base liquid, gold and myrrh oil are designed to erase the signs of fatigue on the face.

Korean brand Tony Moly has launched an eye cream with snail mucus and 24 carat gold that fights fine lines.


This is a natural ingredient, a derivative of the sebaceous glands – our skin produces squalane on its own. But after 20 years, its production in the body decreases and problems begin. For example, flaking of the skin slows down and hyperkeratosis occurs, ie thickening of the stratum corneum. Or suddenly there is dryness, roughness, hypersensitivity of the skin, wrinkles and pigmentation. Therefore, the recommendations of cosmetologists are clear: at 35+, products with squalane should be included in the beauty routine.

Vegetable squalane is used for the production of cosmetics, most often from olives and cane. And it is not worse than ours, human – it also perfectly moisturizes and softens the skin, retains its elasticity and firmness and fights premature aging.

Where to look for it?

Squalane is a frequent guest on moisturizing, nourishing and anti-aging products.


Look for it in Filorga Time-Filler 5XP Cream Gel. This bestseller of the brand intensively corrects all types of wrinkles.

Squalane is a favorite ingredient in Kiehl’s brand. They recently announced a 10.5% squalane moisturizing face mask.

And for several years, one of the most popular products of the brand is the ultra-moisturizing face cream Ultra Facial Cream.

The Hungarian brand Peter Thomas Roth produces pure cane squalene oil that can be used to fight acne and the signs of aging.


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The article “Stop the Moment” was published in Robb Report (No. 4, May 2022).

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