“Moscow … how much in that sound.” 5 informal parts of Pushkin in the capital City


ag. Kuznetsky Most, 9/10 – st. Neglinnaya, 10/9

Photo: wikimedia

The Yar restaurant, which opened in 1826 at the intersection of Kuznetsky Most and Neglinnaya streets, has been a symbolic place for Russian cultural figures, especially Pushkin, for almost a century. Initially Slavic, as it seems at first glance, the name of the restaurant and the nearby hotel was due to their founder, the French Tranquil Yard. Later, the restaurant changed its location several times, but in the first decade of the reign of Nicholas I, the management remained unchanged. Therefore, shouting at the taxi driver “Drive to the Yar!”, There was no doubt that you would be driving to the right place.

Now the Yar Restaurant, which has been traveling the city map for two centuries, now resides at the Sovetskaya Hotel on Leningradsky Avenue.

However, even in the historic building on Kuznetsky Most there are many cafes, bars and restaurants at the same time, in each of which you can, sitting by the window and looking out into the street, pretend to be a friend of Alexander Sergeevich, waiting for him for dinner.


Voznesensky Lane, 9

Photo: Sergey Bodin, um.mos.ru

At the house of Prince Peter Andreevich Viazemsky, an outstanding writer and friend of Pushkin, two great Alexander Sergeyevich read their works immediately: Griboyedov uttered “Alas for Wisdom” in 1824, Pushkin – Bushkin was a frequent and dear guest of the Viazemski family, something that was even reported to the authorities by the gendarmes who followed the poet.

The authors of the Moscow Telegraph, one of the most important literary magazines of the first quarter of the 19th century, gathered in the same house, in which Pushkin, Viazemsky, Zukovsky, Jazikov, and Baratinsky, who lived next door and often hosted Pushkin, were published.


ag. Lenivka, 3

Photo: wikimedia

The three-story ancillary building, which in the early 19th century did not have a third floor with a large window knocking out of the common row, was for a long time the refuge of the artist Vasily Andreevich Tropinin, a former servant, wonderful painter and a rather modest man. who preferred quiet Moscow to bureaucratic St. Petersburg.

From the wing windows there was a view of the Kremlin, depicted in many of Tropinin’s portraits, but one of the artist’s major works – a portrait of Pushkin, for which the poet came to pose here in 1827 – gives the impression. that the hero of the image is in a closed cell. This typically “Moscow” welcoming image of Pushkin in a robe will become iconic, like Kiprensky’s “Petersburg” portrait.

VA Tropinin “Portrait of Alexander Sergeevich Pushkin”, 1827 / OA Kiprensky Portrait of AS Pushkin, 1827

The aforementioned Moscow Telegraph wrote about the painting of this portrait, commissioned by Pushkin as a gift to the encyclopedist Sobolevsky, with whom Alexander Sergeevich was living at the time. The portrait itself became the subject of a true police story: the canvas was either replaced with a fake one on the way to Sobolevsky, or Sobolevsky, before leaving abroad, left it to preserve his friends, but the painting was stolen or lost. .

In the late 1850s, the portrait was accidentally found in a pawnshop – and Tropinin, already very old, weeping over the cracked paint, cleaned the painting and covered it with fresh varnish, but did not dare to renew it. The original portrait is now in the Pushkin Museum in St. Petersburg and a copy of Tropinin is in the Tretyakov Gallery.


Khokhlovsky per., 7

Photo: wikimedia

Since the 1770s, one of Moscow’s oldest buildings houses the Moscow Main Archive – the “grandfather of Russian archives”, whose heart was the archive of the Posolsky Prikaz, under Pushkin – the archive of the College of Foreign Affairs. The most valuable documents of national history were transported here, in a place quite safe for papers, from the Kremlin cellars, which were often flooded by the Moscow River. The service in this archive was considered prestigious and desirable, the circle of “archival news” was very narrow – and the official Pushkin assigned to the archive communicated closely with each of these more educated individuals. The poet, fascinated by Russian history, worked hard on the archives, conceiving the idea of ​​a fundamental work on the history of Petrin’s time, which, unfortunately, was not realized due to Pushkin’s imminent death.

Later, a music printing press appeared in this building, which was visited several times by Tchaikovsky, and now the townspeople are struggling to preserve half of the historic building, which does not have the status of a federal monument and is therefore threatened with demolition.


Strastnoy Boulevard, 10

Photo: wikimedia

Around Bolshaya Dmitrovka, which from 1937 to 1993 bore the name of Pushkinskaya Street, points associated with the poet are found at every turn. In Stoleshnikov 12, there was the office of the Moscow Police Chief, where Pushkin was summoned for questioning about his free-thinking poems. At the end of Bolshaya Dmitrovka, there was the University Printing House, from where Vestnik Evropy and the Moscow Telegraph were scattered throughout Russia, and the University Bookstore, run by one of Moscow’s best-selling booksellers, Alexander Sergeevich Shiryaev.

Pushkin knew Siriaev personally and used his shop as one of the addresses for receiving personal correspondence.

Just above the store in a beautiful apartment lived Moskovskie Vedomosti publisher Prince Shalikov, for the high cost of which Pushkin complained about in letters to friends.

You will not find the same historic building now – the 17th-century Chamber Printing House, discovered in the 1960s, carefully preserved by Soviet restorers and inscribed in the usual Muscovite appearance of the house, was demolished in 2002. Behind it, it is built a very rough copy – a gym with a two-storey swimming pool, baths and saunas.

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