The Turkish meat restaurant is a genre in itself, having little in common with the boring classic steakhouses. Restaurant columnist Vladimir Gridin studied the Meat Coin restaurant that recently opened in Moscow and tells the story of Turkish butchers.
The rise in popularity of Turkish butchers around the world dates back to January 7, 2017. Nusret Gokce, chef at the Nusr-Et meat restaurant in Dubai, posted a video that day cutting and salting a steak, tossing grains of salt from his fingers to his elbow, from where they slide on the meat. Gokce immediately became a meme on the Internet, the video went viral and the Turkish meat restaurant became a big trend.
Gokce, of course, did not appear out of nowhere. He was just lucky to be the face of a process that has been lurking in the butchers of Istanbul for the last thirty years. The most famous of these, the Günaydın, is the absolutely indisputable principle for Turkish meat. The butcheria opened in the 1990s on the Asian side of Istanbul, eventually turned into a restaurant and then into a chain. At Günaydın, Gökce was also once wiser, and without exception, all the chefs of Turkish meat restaurants in Moscow – from Yavuz Yalvach from Eleven Meathouse and Cihan Deniz from Cihan to Burak Osman and Bilal Rekber from Levantine.
Nusret Gokce. Source: @nusr_et
Along with the Günaydın school, he immigrated to Russia and the style of its founder Cuneyt Asan, who is called a professor of meat affairs. The focus of the Turkish butcher is the experience and the ability to work with meat in the literal sense with his eyes closed. Practically the children go to the shops, at the age of 20 they become mature carpenters who know all the intricacies of the job. Over the years, they only accumulate experience. Hence the main feature of Turkish meat restaurants is the theatrical presentation. Shaking knife knives, looking into the guest’s eyes and not the steak, immediately clean the bone from the meat and cut it into equal pieces, flavor it with salt and spices with the gesture of a magician and at the end also put one of them in the open mouth. of the visitor with surprise – Turkish chefs know how to do all this and are actively practicing. That’s why it’s worth going to any Turkish meat restaurant as a theater, and not just for the sake of a piece of meat.
And the menus of all Turkish butchers are customized according to a pattern: dry steaks, kebabs, about the same salads, unrestrained luxury desserts with honey and sugar syrup. There are also some pranks that require you to eat immediately with a name: meat delight, for example, which turns out to be tartar cut into small strips or meat sushi.
Asado beef ribs boiled in tandoor, 3200 rub.
Meat Coin knows very well the conditions of the game. In 2018, long before the Turkish steakhouses flourished in Moscow, it opened in St. Petersburg and has now arrived in the capital.
The Moscow Meat Coin with an average bill of 8,000 rubles is designed for wealthy meat connoisseurs. Its showcase is the dry aging chamber and the huge cutting decks on display. Right at the entrance there is a counter with steaks that you can buy to go to, but it is better to trust the skills of local carpenters on the grill than to seek luck.
dry aging chamber
Only Russian beef is used in the restaurant; scouts are looking for it all over the country. The best cattle are everywhere: both in the North Caucasus and in the Leningrad region. Questions about obesity, age of the animal and other important things about meat-based afisionados can not be asked here, just by believing the meager data: all pieces mature in dry aging chambers for at least 4 weeks and the most marble of these are specified in the Signature section. The latter, it seemed to me, are not for everyone: the taste and texture in them are drowned in excess fat. If you want, you can order the steak in 999 carat gold foil – this impresses even the laity.
24 carat Dallas Signature steak, 20000 rub.
The lamb is also cooked in the restaurant and it is highly recommended to try the lamb side – a filigree stripped square with a ribbon in the lumbar region. Kebabs are also made from lamb: juicy urfa, spicy adana, pistachio. Turkish chefs under the orders of chef Mehmet Chalyshkan cook perfectly. Mehmet personally approaches the table, butcher the meat, looking him in the eye, he actually puts a huge knife on the table – voila!
Lamb ribs, 5200 rub.
If we ignore the steaks, then the restaurant is worth getting carpaccio with meat, only from the list of pranks I have already mentioned. A huge plate of minced meat is seasoned and wrapped with arugula and parmesan in a kind of meat shawarma flavored with Dijon mustard. Everything is rinsed with wine or cocktails that focus on the taste not of the alcohol, but of the additional ingredients (there are, for example, gin with zira and Calvados with peas).
Turkish dessert with Aegina pistachios and a scoop of ice cream, 1100 r.
What sets Meat Coin apart from other Turkish meat restaurants is the service (ask for a table with Artem – he is a master of his art) and the interior. The design of the DA Bureau architectural studio plays with the butcher’s stereotypes: a leather apron is cut into lampshades for fringes, the wooden walls look like butcher blocks, and the panels and toner blocks look like a grill. In such an environment, even the chef’s efforts to put a piece of meat in your mouth leave a pleasant aftertaste.
Interior of Meat Coin restaurant
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