The Shevol restaurant opened in VDNKh – and unexpectedly turned out to be dazzlingly good. Not all restaurants in VDNH are bad, no, but you do not expect such a breakthrough in such a remote area. What is the important discovery? Because it is a restaurant associated with a cheese factory. The fact that these cheeses are made by Olesya Shevchuk. The fact that the Sheval kitchen does not follow the example of the dairy, but neither does it precede it. The fact that everyone involved in the project has a sense of taste. But first first.
In the world of Russian handicraft cheese, Olesya Shevchuk is an absolute star, and not only on a local scale. Among other things, he is a silver and bronze medalist at the World Cheese Award and the Mondial du Fromage. She is the only one in Russia to have a diploma from the Mons Academy under the Refining program (that is, she knows how not only to make cheese, but also, say, to train them – to make sure they age properly). Olesya Shevchuk did a lot of things, trained everywhere she could, trained, became a member of the International Guild of Cheesemakers, and eventually opened her own Cheeseschool (by the way, the school is near the House of Crafts). And so, together with her husband Rustam Agdarov, she opened a restaurant. You can eat, then go to the store and buy cheese at home. Or vice versa, buy cheese in a store and in a restaurant try how he behaves in cooking. Either way, you will not be disappointed. By the way, a small cheese factory also operates directly in the restaurant, you can watch through the glass how mozzarella, stratsiatella and burrata are born (but you have to understand that the range of cheeses produced by Olesya Shevchuk is much larger).
A few words about where all this is. The Shevol restaurant, like almost everything on the VDNKh, is housed in a historic building, a magnificent, almost gingerbread house built in 1939, which originally housed a kindergarten for the children of the workers on display. It is true that he later opened a wine shop here, which did not affect the facilities in the best way: when Shevchuk and Agdarov decided to set up a restaurant here, they first had to take out a lot of garbage trucks. But now, after removing all the cultural and not too many layers, it has become beautiful again: huge windows, historic supporting pillars of carefully cleaned light ash, walls of an intricate shade of ash, branded but not fancy furniture.
Who is responsible for the kitchen
Now – why go to Shevol, other than watch the mozzarella. How for what? To eat. Alexander Hayrapetyan was invited to be the chef and here the restaurant was very lucky: Hayrapetyan is from a new generation of chefs, not lazy, who respects the product and likes to cook, ambitious, but realizes his ambitions more through cooked food than through beautiful words. I remember him from the Polet restaurant, which worked for some time in Khodynka. It was unquestionably a commercial project: a huge living space, a compromising menu – and it is clear that the issue of the chef’s creative implementation was simply not there. However, Hairapetian, who had just arrived from St. Petersburg, did not give up and even in such an oppressive situation he managed to do something of his own. At Shevol, the situation is completely different and the chef’s talent has literally blossomed. Maybe there is not so much self-expression in his dishes, but the products sing in all the voices that nature gives.
What to order
The menu, designed by Alexander Hayrapetyan, includes 26 dishes, five desserts, four children’s dishes and three different Italian appetizers, cheeses and cold cuts. The restaurant works very little to judge what was better and what was worse, but even the first hasty test allows you to highlight the future top. These are all three hot appetizers: baked sweet potato with stratsiatella and carrot vanilla cream (520 rubles), pumpkin steak with gorgonzola, orange honey and grated walnut (630 rubles) and camembert baked with jam (5 rubles) ). Any of these dishes is enough to understand the style of the restaurant and feel how it breathes: Hayrapetyan does not try to squeeze more pumpkin or sweet potatoes than he can give, patiently waiting to finally reveal their quiet beauty to the world. . And he also likes to be categorically outdated – loose baking in the oven, classic French sauces, like jam cooked by a grandmother. In general, what a pleasure.
Cold English tomato soup (580 rubles) is prepared in much the same archaic way, served with a large piece of very fresh stratsiatella. Of course, you can sell anything with stratsiatella, but here is another case – the tomatoes, garlic and sweet peppers first wither in the oven, pick up caramel and velvet and only then send them to the blender. And if you choose among the cold soups presented by Moscow restaurants this summer, it will definitely be in the top ten.
In the field of pasta, lazy lasagna (790 rubles) is definitely the leader, although not very photogenic. “Love knocking down” is for her. This is an extremely convincing and masterfully prepared lasagna – with baked brisket, eggplant and tomatoes, with shiny parmesan mousse. I honestly can not understand what is so lazy in it, other than the name.
It’s strange after all this to suggest a burger, but it is still available here – with shredded beef and fried halloumi (600 rubles). The halloumi in Shevol, by the way, is fundamentally different from this cheese that looks like a belt and is almost bitterly salty made in Cyprus – here it is not a completely mass product, it is more tender, more expressive and generally more foolishly tastier. So the burger makes some sense, if you have any doubts.
Yes, and of course, in a dairy you have to order a plate of cheese (890 or 1390 rubles, depending on the portion). The following is a simple list of cheeses included in its composition: goat mansego, brie, semi-hard tom with chanterelles, gorgonzola dolce, semi-soft talejo, slightly adapted to the Russian taste, plus, of course, any other buckwheat honey. It should be noted that this composition is not normal – instead of gorgonzola, they can put, for example, stilton and all that. Tip: ask to try stracchino. Well, or order the local cake with honey (430 rubles), it is made only from ostrich. The only problem is that until dessert, it is unlikely that you will be able to appreciate any game of flavors – the portions in Shevol are not really small.
Either way, this is a restaurant that deserves a special visit. If you are on VDNKh, be sure to stop. If not, take a taxi and come. It may sound a bit pretentious, but this is a claim that is more justified than any other.